Replacing Seals on pump; original or aftermarket parts?

[JimK]

Watching the videos was a big help and made the instructions in the manual more clear.

I do have a safety question concerning the process to remove the impeller. The manual and the videos say to use a wrench at the back of the pump to keep the shaft from spinning when removing/installing the impeller. My question concerns the safety of working around the capacitor. Of course I'll make sure the power is off at the breaker, but if I understand correctly, the capacitor stores power temporarily so you could get shocked even with power disconnected.

How long should power be disconnected to allow the capacitor to discharge so it is safe to handle?

I did see a couple places where they said to discharge the capacitor by shorting the leads. However, it warn the capacitor could explode by doing this. Doesn't sound like something I want to try.

Thanks again for your help.

PS - I did see a post where someone said to use a screwdriver to carefully insert into the cooling fins to keep the shaft from spinning. Would this be a safer alternative? Or would this risk damaging the pump?

[waterbear]

It should not be necessary to discharge the cap since it can be moved out of the way by unscrewing the bracket that holds it in place for the wrench to fit easily. Sometimes you can fit in the wrench without removing the cap but it only takes a few seconds and it makes the process so much easier.

HOWEVER I would disconnect the wires and plumbing from the pump and do the work on a workbench and not in the installed location! Trust me on this. Even with the breakers off it is still safer to disconnect the power wires and having the pump on a workbench will make your job MUCH easier! Remember that the impeller is reverse threaded so yo want to turn it counterclockwise (the opposite of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey).

[JimK]

It should not be necessary to discharge the cap since it can be moved out of the way by unscrewing the bracket that holds it in place for the wrench to fit easily. Sometimes you can fit in the wrench without removing the cap but it only takes a few seconds and it makes the process so much easier.

HOWEVER I would disconnect the wires and plumbing from the pump and do the work on a workbench and not in the installed location! Trust me on this. Even with the breakers off it is still safer to disconnect the power wires and having the pump on a workbench will make your job MUCH easier! Remember that the impeller is reverse threaded so yo want to turn it counterclockwise (the opposite of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey).

Thanks for the great tips. I'm now feeling a bit more confident doing this.

[JimK]

I replaced the seals today without much trouble and so far the pump doesn't seem to be leaking, at least not as much as before. It's hard to tell since it has been raining today. I'll be able to tell better once the concrete pad it sits on dries out.

I'm not sure if this is because these seals are aftermarket parts, but the housing gasket and the strainer basket gasket were a little too large. I did manage to seat them properly after fussing with them a bit. The other seals seem to fit perfectly.

Thanks Waterbear, I greatly appreciate your help.

[waterbear]

The gasket and o rings often have to be worked into place whether OEM or aftemarket and the Aladdin parts such as the Go kits are pretty good quality and widely used. The only part of the theirs that I am not crazy about are some of their skimmer baskets.

[JimK]

It's not suppose to rain today so when I get home this evening I should be able to tell if there are any more leaks.

[JimK]

The equipment pad is dry!

The pump isn't leaking and the PVC repair (another thread) is holding.