Well let me further expand my post... I was complaining to the local pool store guy about how much money I've thrown in my pool in the last 2 months. (About $325). And he blamed it on the heat.
I blame it on the Soft Swim system. :P
Well let me further expand my post... I was complaining to the local pool store guy about how much money I've thrown in my pool in the last 2 months. (About $325). And he blamed it on the heat.
I blame it on the Soft Swim system. :P
16x32 Oval AG vinyl pool; Media Master sand filter; 1.5 hp 1 speed pump; 10 hrs; Rural utility water; Taylor K-2006
Only my opinion but as expensive as those "alternative" pool products are, I'd agree. When we got our pool this summer at the first of July, the pool store wanted me on Pristine Blue but after some research I decided against it, returned all the PB product and went Chlorine. I have probably spent somewhere in the neighborhood of 80 bucks on bleach and that along with the other things like the trichlor pucks and CYA I've used have me in the neighborhood of 130 or so spent since opening 04 JUL.
I firmly believe that my cost would be quadruple that if I had stayed with the Pristine Blue, AND my pool wouldn't be sanitary.![]()
30' round 22K gal AG vinyl pool; skimmer tabs and GV Bleach; Hayward SD60 sand filter; Pentair 1.5 HP pump; hrs; ; utility water; summer: none; winter: none; K-2006 Test Kit ; PF:5.5
$oft$wim is a biguanide/peroxide system (dollar signs intentional!) The heat can and will break down the peroxide oxidizer fast so you might need to add more and you might need more algaecide because of the heat since algae can be a problem with these systems but biguanide systems are also money pits that will quickly drain your wallet even under ideal conditions!
My advice is bite the bullet and convert to chlorine! You won't regret it!
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
I've actually already reached that point (that I will abandon Soft$wim.)
And it's only been 2 months. At least I found this forum before going through an entire $eason.
Mainly right now I'm just reading and trying to take notes so I can ask intelligently-prepared questions rather than broad open-ended "How do I do it" questions.
In my line of work (Architecture & Engineering) we have a saying about novices: "He doesn't even know what he doesn't know yet."
It's not meant to be an insult, it's just that people like that need someone watching over their shoulder for a while.
That's where I'm at as a pool owner.
As best as I can tell (correct me if I'm wrong) the first thing I need to do next Spring is see what my fill water base line is that comes out of my garden hose.
A total drain and refill doesn't spook me a bit next Spring, I'm open to that.
Next Spring, when I drain/refill and change out the filter sand, I will be starting from square one as a chlorine pool.
I don't have the test kit that is ubiquitously recommended yet, but I assume that testing my garden hose fill water is first?
I know the water will turn burgundy color with chlorine, and I haven't resolved that one yet in my head.
16x32 Oval AG vinyl pool; Media Master sand filter; 1.5 hp 1 speed pump; 10 hrs; Rural utility water; Taylor K-2006
Yes, you need to know the readings for your fill water. (But don't run a CYA test, of course, since there is no CYA in city water supplies and no reason to waste the testing reagent.)
Does anyone know what causes rural water to turn burgundy color when chlorine is introduced? I think someone said magnesium, but I don't know. What's the solution to that?
16x32 Oval AG vinyl pool; Media Master sand filter; 1.5 hp 1 speed pump; 10 hrs; Rural utility water; Taylor K-2006
Softswim will turn greenish to brown when chlorine is introduced and get gunky.
purple coloration to water when chlorine is introduced and black stains on sufaces is probably manganese, not magnesium.
Lavender stain on pool surfaces ("purple haze") is copper cyanurate caused by high CYA and copper in the water.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
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