Removing Dead Algae from the pool-SOS

[duraleigh]

Hi, Dave,

Good work getting that in there. 6.6pH is a corrosive condition....not good for anything in or around your pool. (which contains 13,000 gallons)

If you don't have a test kit, you should make it a priorty to get one. Testing for Cl, pH, Alk, and CYA will all be important. I saw a 5-way HTH brand at Lowe's that'll do what you want. Ben's (sold here) is the very best and will pay you back year after year.

I'm not positive, but I think "pH plus" is the same as borax. Somewhere around 16 oz. should start to move the pH. If you have a test kit, you should see a difference in a few hours. Testing around dusk would work.

On a similar subject, you may need to adjust your alkalinity a little but let's wait for the next Ph reading first.

Now, since you're out there at dusk testing with your new kit anyway , put in 3 gallons (not jugs) of 6% Clorox. Don't skimp. this is gonna' clear up your water....not the pH adjustment. That'll bring your Cl up to 15ppm and start to get rid of any remaing organics you may have in the pool. Check again, just before you go to bed and bring it back up to 15ppm. Use the bleachcalc to tell you how much to add.

Lastly, no hurry, but your CYA is a little low. I would add 1lb (into the skimmer, don't backwash) and that will, in a few days, bring your CYA up around 30. You may want to go a little higher later and you'll have some left over if you get the 3lb bottle at Lowe's.

Dave, the key to getting really perfect water is that test kit. It's really easy to offer advice if we know your current chemistry. Plus, there's just no telling how great your reward will be from your wife when she sees that beautiful water!!

[ssawyan]

Dave S. Very funny post! Things look slightly better than they did 4 hours ago, but I am off to get some borax and chlorox. For as much PH as I put in there is hardly any blip on the test.

Thanks again for taking the time to post and for also giving me a few laughs. Just curious, do you add the chlorox through the skimmer? It seems like I have seen suggestions for both methods.

[gregugadawg]

A high phosphate level is definitely going to be the cause of high chlorine demand. You are just gonna go right through that bleach like it is water. Also the best thing once you get the ph balanced is to use a 10 dollar bottle of floc, add that to the water, let everything settle out and your pool will by crystal clear over night. No need to waste the money on the bleach yet.

[waterbear]

I'm not positive, but I think "pH plus" is the same as borax. Somewhere around 16 oz. should start to move the pH. If you have a test kit, you should see a difference in a few hours. Testing around dusk would work.

On a similar subject, you may need to adjust your alkalinity a little but let's wait for the next Ph reading first.

pH plus is Soda Ash. It will raise TA along with pH but like you said the TA might need adjustment anyway so that is not a priority at this point. Getting the pH up is!

Ssawyan,
I would NOT worry about phosphates right now. The reason for the high chlorine demand is the organics and algae in the water. IMHO, the only time to try a phosphate remover is when you have a reoccuring algae problem in an otherwise ok pool AND you have high phospahte levels. My pool has 1000ppm phosphates and I have yet to have an algae bloom.

Sometimes it takes a lot of chlorine, expecially if your CYA levels are much lower then when you closed your pool. If they are then it means that the CYA has been biodegraded by bacteria when the pool was closed and that there are a lot of organics (ammonia and urea) that need to be burned off. If this is the case just keep putting in chlorine until it is holding. Your chlorine will be used up quickly until it can burn them off. If this is not the case then you are just dealing with the algae and things will go a bit faster but you still need to keep getting the chlorine in there and running the pump/filter 24/7.