with the numbers above you have a CSI of .3 which is ok. However, a salt pool is probably better off with a slightly negative CSI. By increaing the CYA to 100, borate to 50, dropping pH to about 7.6 to 7.8, increasing the FC to 5 or 6 ppm you would move the CSI to about -.15 to -.2. Anywhere from .3 to -.3 is fine and .6 to -.6 is acceptable so don't stress that much over CSI
That is a true statement in an unstabilized pool. Once you add CYA the game changes and that is no longer the case. However, even manufacturers and chemical companies don't understand this basic fact of chlorine chemistry.
As for as the CYA range of 50 to 80, that is the recommended range but in their quick start guide they give a max of 100 as the link I posted above had shown.
As far as your salt test readings...the Taylor drop based salt test is easy to overshoot the endpoint (stop when the color changed from cloudy yellow to salmon red --look at the color on a can of red salmon for a reference -- and does not revert back to yellow on swirling the tube, if you go to a red brown color you have gone to far) and the Aquachek salt strips need to sit in the sample for a FULL 10 MINUTES to get an accurate reading or they can read low (as can old strips or ones that have been ruined by humidity. The two test should not be that far apart. up to about 800 ppm is acceptable variance but 1800 ppm is way too much!
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