Deep Blue Water MP3000 Mpluse - does it work?

[spibill]

Ok here are my numbers with K2006
TA: 70
pH: 8
FC: 2.6 plan to leave SWCG as is for now
CH: 475
CYA: <30 plan to add 5 # CYA to bring up to 80 ppm
Borate: 30 plan to add 7.5 # Borax and 2 qt acid to bring to 50 ppm
Temp: 90
Salt: 6400 w/ drop test and 4600 w/ strip Don't understand how it increased from 2200 in Feb. SWCG says it is ok but why didn't it get diluted vs. increase? Perhaps there is salt from the atmosphere from the very salty Laguna Madre that we border on.
SI: .63 w/ wheel TA adj to 61 ( 70-9 with CYA so low )

I will wait until I get confirmation on my plans.

[waterbear]

with the numbers above you have a CSI of .3 which is ok. However, a salt pool is probably better off with a slightly negative CSI. By increaing the CYA to 100, borate to 50, dropping pH to about 7.6 to 7.8, increasing the FC to 5 or 6 ppm you would move the CSI to about -.15 to -.2. Anywhere from .3 to -.3 is fine and .6 to -.6 is acceptable so don't stress that much over CSI

IntelliChlor manual says "FC 2.0-4.0 Above 4.0 ppm may cause corrosion of metal components"

That is a true statement in an unstabilized pool. Once you add CYA the game changes and that is no longer the case. However, even manufacturers and chemical companies don't understand this basic fact of chlorine chemistry.
As for as the CYA range of 50 to 80, that is the recommended range but in their quick start guide they give a max of 100 as the link I posted above had shown.

As far as your salt test readings...the Taylor drop based salt test is easy to overshoot the endpoint (stop when the color changed from cloudy yellow to salmon red --look at the color on a can of red salmon for a reference -- and does not revert back to yellow on swirling the tube, if you go to a red brown color you have gone to far) and the Aquachek salt strips need to sit in the sample for a FULL 10 MINUTES to get an accurate reading or they can read low (as can old strips or ones that have been ruined by humidity. The two test should not be that far apart. up to about 800 ppm is acceptable variance but 1800 ppm is way too much!

[spibill]

Thanks, I'll increase CYA closer to 100 and Borate to 50 and drop pH to 7.6 tomorrow and report. FC should continue to increase to 5-6 range with current setting. As far as the salt, I'll get new strips and also repeat drop test. Drop test got very cloudy/clumpy lite grey early as I added drops last time. Also, how can I calculate CSI?

[waterbear]

Thanks, I'll increase CYA closer to 100 and Borate to 50 and drop pH to 7.6 tomorrow and report. FC should continue to increase to 5-6 range with current setting. As far as the salt, I'll get new strips and also repeat drop test. Drop test got very cloudy/clumpy lite grey early as I added drops last time. Also, how can I calculate CSI?

If you keep the nimbers where I said you don't need to worry about the CSI

[spibill]

Yesterday I got CYA up to 80. Need to get more CYA on Monday to increase to 100.

[spibill]

Tests today:
TA climbed to 100 from 90 yesterday
pH climbed to 7.6 from 7.4 "
FC dropped to 6.5 from 8 "

Should I try to reduce TA ?

[PoolDoc]

Should I try to reduce TA ?

Why?

[waterbear]

With a SWCG dropping your TA to around 70 ppm will slow the pH rise caused by the cell generating and causing aeration of the water which causes CO2 to outgas which causes pH rise.

However, before you attack TA get the CYA in line and get the unit adusted to maintaiin 5-6 ppm FC. Then adjust the TA and keep your pH between 7.6 to 8.0 (actually, when it climbs above 7.8 drop it back to 7.6.)

[spibill]

I'll get more CYA tomorrow.

[spibill]

CYA up to 100. pH has been holding at 7.6 for 3 days, first time ever for that. I'll monitor a few days then reduce TA.