I sorta hate to tell you this, but phosphates are generally a non-issue, except for pool stores who make a LOT of money on selling people phosphate removers!! The phosphates aren't taking the chlorine--the algae is. You have been what we refer to as "pool-stored".
In theory, phosphates are algae food, so having phosphates in the pool makes it easier for algae to grow. However, if you maintain appropriate chlorine levels for your stabilizer level (CYA) in the pool, there's no algae there to consume the food!!
In order to get rid of the algae, you need to shock the pool and hold it at shock level until the chlorine is dead. Then when you let the chlorine levels drift back down, you can't let them get below what's appropriate for your CYA level, or you'll have algae again.
So...if you'll post a set of water test results (taken with a drop-based kit, no strips!!) for us to look at, we can help you get the algae cleared up and gone for the rest of the summer. You will need a drop kit to test with, though, if you don't already have one. We very highly recommend the K-2006 that you can find linked in my sig, but until you get a good kit, check your local WalMart and see if they have one of the hth 6-way drop kits. It will work for now. At the very least, pick up the cheapie OTO kit (uses red and yellow drops for pH and chlorine) and use that, because you'll have to do frequent chlorine measurements in order to kill off the algae. If you have to go with this kit, then you'll have to get the pool store to test for your CYA (but not if they're using test strips). While you're at WalMart, pick up several gallons of plain, unscented bleach.
If you'll come back and post your test results (numbers, not general phrases like "low" or "in range"), along with what chems you've put in the pool, we'll be glad to help you get it cleared up--and I promise none of it will require phosphate removers!!
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