Thanks, Ill have to do some calcs to figure out how much its costing me
It's not necessarily bad...it's just an unnecessary expense to pay the electricity!
If you can turn your pool's water volume over in 8-10 hours or so, then why pay the extra electric to run the pump the other 14-16 hours?
Janet
Thanks, Ill have to do some calcs to figure out how much its costing me
18x40 Lazy L 30K gal IG Vinyl pool; tri-clor feeder; Hayward #250 sand sand filter; Hayward super-1-1/2 HP pump; ; Taylor 2006c; utility water- PF:4
You might be surprised, not only in how much electricity you're using (unless you're using a variable speed pump at a very low rpm setting), but also in the expedited equipment maintenance/replacement costs, too.
I'm trying to find the optimal setting of pump on-time, pump rpms, chlorine production (I've got a SWCG), typical bather load, and resulting water clarity and quality. Even if I'm not at the absolute optimal setting, I'm pretty darn close to it.
South Florida - 16,000g Diamond Brite pool, 700g spa & waterfall, Jandy 1400 AquaPure SWCG, Jandy variable-speed 1.5H pump, Jandy 60 DE filter, Jandy heat pump - using Taylor K-2006 kit
I looked at variable speed pumps last year when my 1-1/2HP motor burned up. Being in southern OH I could not justify it for my 12-14 week swimming season. When I have to replace the pump I will take another look.
That said you guys have me thinking I am throwing money away by running 24/7.
I am sure I would have to make adjustments to my chlorine feeder(3" tri-chlor tabs).
Can you think of any other potential problems I should watch for?
18x40 Lazy L 30K gal IG Vinyl pool; tri-clor feeder; Hayward #250 sand sand filter; Hayward super-1-1/2 HP pump; ; Taylor 2006c; utility water- PF:4
I don't think you'll have any trouble if you run the pump 8-10 hours a day. I never run mine 24/7. I typically turn it on around noon and off around 8 or 9pm.
I have my chlorine feeder set to 1/8 and run my pump 6 hours out of 24, on low speed. This maintains FC at 3 ppm in my volume.
It's a little bit trial and error unless someone is a real math brain and can do the calculations involved.
My given was that the pump would run on low speed. My variables were time and chlorinator setting. My test was FC and CC using just the feeder. 4 hours didn't put enough chlorine in, 8 hours put too much at the 1/4 setting of the feeder. I settled on 6 hours, reduced the setting to 1/8 to avoid overshooting the CYA, and add liquid chlorine now and then.
Oval 12.5K gal AGP; Hayward 19" sand filter; Pentair Dyn 1 HP 2sp pump on timer
[URL="http://www.ellerbach.com/Pool/"]My Pool Pages[/URL]
That sounds like a great place to start.
Thank you![]()
18x40 Lazy L 30K gal IG Vinyl pool; tri-clor feeder; Hayward #250 sand sand filter; Hayward super-1-1/2 HP pump; ; Taylor 2006c; utility water- PF:4
I have had a timer for 13 years without problems on my in ground 24,000 gal pool. Run my pump for 1 hour 3 times a day during the summer, and 2 times a day in the winter. Pump and filter rated to approx 6,000 gal/hr. I couldn't survive without as I am frequently away in the winter for several weeks at a time.
In my town, a pool timer is part of the building/electrical code. It's required. But even if it wasn't, I'd have had it installed, wired into the breaker box. When I had an early Intex donut, I had an outdoor timer that plugged into an outdoor outlet.
Carl
Carl, why would it be part of the building code and required? That seems strange to me. My timer is also wired into my breaker box but I'm not using it too much these days. My geeky friend Poconos installed some kind of outlet control software on my laptop when he was here visiting one time that allows me to turn my pool pump on and off from my computer. How is that for the ultimate in laziness!
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