Salt level at 2700 PPM question

[bell7272]

We fired up our pool 30 days ago, BUT did not add the salt because PeebleTEc said to wait one month before doing so.

Yesterday Salt (200lbs) was added about 5PM EST by the pool guy. (I plan on doing the pool myself and have Ben's PS234S kit, but was travelling extensively last 30 days and had to use a pool service)

The salt PPM is 2700 and it has been that way since last night. Filter is set to run 8 hours (7AM -10AM & 4PM to 9PM) at 50% chorination.

When I checked the PH this morning with test strip and Ben's PH test it was high. Still learning to read, but it was over well over 8. Added 1/2 gallon of Muratic acid about 1 hour ago and will check in 3-4 hours.

My question is should I add more salt to get the PPM above 3000? Also, I should say that the pool service also left some chorine tabs in the skimmer also.

Pool is IG 15 X 30 about 13,000 gal.

I also plan on reading much more info on testing and figuring out how to properly use Ben's kit this weekend.

Any other advice is also welcome since Sunday is our first "Pool Party" for our friends.


W Bell
Orlando, FL

[mkamp1515]

If your level is 2700, you should add one more bag of salt. That should do you fine. I am wondering why you had to wait a month too put in salt because you have Pebble Tec. We put in our pool last year and we have pebble tec. Once that pool was full (2 days after the pebble tec was finished), the pool builder sent their start up team and got everything going...including the SWG. Did not harm anything. That is interesting. Good Luck and hope this helps a little.

[bell7272]

I talked to PeebleTec and thay said wait 30 days for the curing process because the PH can go real high and that affects the curing. I did what they said since I did not want to give them a reason to void the warranty if that ever became an issue.

Thanks for the response also.

[mwsmith2]

200# of salt doesn't seem like near enough. Did your pool guy do a test first to see if there was any measurable salt level in your pool to start? From my calcs, 200# should bring you to 1800 ppm. There is a definite possibility that the readout on your display there is off, and may be reading at the bottom end of its scale. You may want to get the water tested to see where you are really at.

However, if you want to go from 2700 to 3200, you'll need 54# of salt to do it. If you really are at 1800, then you'll need 151# to get there. As always, add half the ammount, wait a day, and then test to see where you are at. You don't want to overshoot, and the salt indicators on the SWC's are slow-responding by design.

Michael

[bell7272]

Thanks.

I did take a sample to a pool store and they also got 2700 ppm.


I put a #50 bag in and it is ready 3300. I also have to add a couple inches of water later so I then I can see what it reads on Friday AM.

My PH was not as low as I though, it came in at 7.0. I think I'll let it rise naturally over the next couple of days, unless it's best to get it between 7.2 and 7.8 ASAP.


Also, back to salt ppm, what is the ideal range I want to maintain?


Thanks again.

[mwsmith2]

You're ok at 7.0. You might lose a touch of alk being down that low, but it shouldn't be all that major. I like to stay in the 7.5 range with a SWC, since a lower pH is more conducive to Cl production.

Your ideal salt ppm range will be stated in your manual.

Michael

[PatL34]

W Bell,

Check the thread below of my experience with SWCs or SWGs.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1226

Keep the pH at 7.2 - 7.6 for best Cl production. Use plenty of acid for this.

You will be brushing every day to remove the calcium hardness from the pool bottom and walls as the plaster cures. Vacuum to waste, to keep between 200-400 ppm CH, and refill with softened water if you can. Once the Cl starts to steady out from 3 - 5 ppm, the curing should be nearly over. Do not scrimp on this part of the process.

Not knowing your SWC model, I would suggest adding salt, and maintaining 3000 - 3500 ppm level, and replenish after vacuuming to waste. The CYA should be about 40 - 60 ppm, and that too will have to be replaced.

Your running time is more than adequate, and you may be able to cut back, as you get to know your system.

Hope this helps, and post some figures when you have worked out the PS234 kit.

Have a great pool party.

Pat

[PatL34]

This is a duplicate post that was answered in the "Chlorine Feeders and SWC" forum.

Pat

[gregugadawg]

Just one conflicting point here, I wouldn't say that running your equipment 8 hours a day is more than sufficient run time. 8 would be a bare minimum to run it. Typically most pools are designed to turn over in 6-8 hours, in the middle of the summer you would want to run the pump a minimum of 12 hours during the heat of the day. 8am-8pm is normally recommended, you don't want to run it in the morning and off during the day and at night, you want at a bare minimum 8 continuous hours during the heat of the day. And to be honest most people will agree if you can afford the little extra to run it 24 hours a day it will save you money in the long run and a lot of headaches.

[aylad]

Just one conflicting point here, I wouldn't say that running your equipment 8 hours a day is more than sufficient run time. 8 would be a bare minimum to run it. Typically most pools are designed to turn over in 6-8 hours, in the middle of the summer you would want to run the pump a minimum of 12 hours during the heat of the day. 8am-8pm is normally recommended, you don't want to run it in the morning and off during the day and at night, you want at a bare minimum 8 continuous hours during the heat of the day. And to be honest most people will agree if you can afford the little extra to run it 24 hours a day it will save you money in the long run and a lot of headaches.

Depending on the size of the pool and the equipment involved, run time of 8 hours a day may very well be adequate. Not all of us would agree that running the pump a minimum of 12 hours during the heat of the day is necessary, either. And when you consider that SWC cell life is rated in hours of run time, running it 24 hours/day could cost way more than the electric bill.

Janet