I misunderstood your above post--I'm sorry. I came across to me that we've started this set of threads, and THEN you went to the hth folks for lessons on pool care. It's just that sometimes we get people who try to follow our directions AND those of the pool store folks, and it always ends up in a vicious cycle that never ends well.

Ok..When you shocked the pool the other night, what did you shock it with? How high did you take the chlorine? Did it make a difference in your water clarity? You'll need to always keep your chlorine between 1-3 ppm, and yes, I would go ahead and start using the bleach. You don't have to take the floater out, but don't let the straight bleach come in contact with the tabs (BTW, what is the ingredient in the tabs you're using in the floater?)

Don't put any more of the algae guard in. It is not necessary if you're keeping your chlorine levels where they should be, and it can actually cause new water problems for you.

If the tabs in the floater are trichlor, then you'll need to keep an eye on your pH and make sure it doesn't drop below about 7.2. Any lower than that and you might start getting some complaints about eye irritation from the kids. The trichlor is acidic and will drive your pH down. If you need to raise it, use regular 20-Mule team Borax from WalMart or your Grocery store.

When you get a chance, take a water sample to your local pool store, assuming they use drops instead of strips, and ask them to test the water for you. Have them give you a printout of the numbers, not just "low", or "high". Also, when they start rattling off a list of stuff you need to put in the pool, just smile, agree, and tell them you have it all at home. Do not buy any of it, especially if it's calcium, phosphate remover, or algaecide. Their testing is designed to sell product. Right now, a test kit and some bleach is really the only product you need