Re: Water Test Results
Welcome to the forum. What is the size and type of pool you have (vinyl, concrete, above or inground). You will not be able to test the difference in fc and cc, until you get Ben's kit. But you can manage until you do, by keeping up with the chlorine, and getting it checked at the pool store.
First - you can put the stabilizer in the skiimmer while it is running, or you can put the stabilizer in a sock, or something and let it slowly dissolve in the pool. If you put it in the skimmer, you can't backwash for at least a week. Then put in the chlorine - I can't tell you how much till I know how big your pool is in gallons. With a cya of 0 you only need to bring your chlorine up to 10 as in the chart:
Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm
You can use the regular test that may only go up to 5 by using the "shot glass method":
You can double the reading to 10 by mixing equal amounts of pool water and steam-distilled water. I like to use the "Shot Glass Method" --One shot of pool water, one shot of distilled water. Mix and now measure. If the reading is "5ppm", you have 10ppm. You can keep going - 3 shots will take you to 15ppm and so forth.
Until your cya starts to show in the pool, which could take a week, You will have to check your chlorine a couple of times a day and bring it back up to shock level until you have no more combined chlorine.
The rest of your numbers are ok, your ph can be brought up to 7.4.
Please feel free to ask any other questions you have.
Northeast PA
16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5
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