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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Maryland
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    Default Water Test Results

    Just had my water tested at the local pool store. These are the results:

    FC = 0
    TC = 5? (he put an arrow pointing down after that?)
    pH = 7.2
    Alk = 80
    CH = 190
    CYA = 0
    TDS = 450
    phosphates = .25

    HELP!!! I picked up a tub of stabilizer and know I need to get that in. First ....I saw a post on here, somewhere, where someone added stabilizer in their leaf bag hanging over the edge in the water flow. Do I just put the powder in and leave it? Do I need to put the stabilizer in someting else first? Do I need to add all 4 lbs. of stabilizer? And do I add it all at one time? Sorry for all the questions.

    Next problem is keeping chlorine level correct. I purchased the cheap-o kit from Wal-Mart and can only test up to 3ppm. The pool store model only tests up to 5 and until I can order and receive Ben's what's the best way of testing. I can't tell the difference between FC, CC, and TC on my test kit. Right now I'm dumping 2-3 lbs. of cal-hypo powder every day. (Only because we purchased a case of the stuff when we opened the pool this year) I have 12 bags of the powder left and would like to switch to bleach once that's gone.

    I really am sorry for all the questions, I'm just really confused about keeping the chlorine levels so high.

  2. #2
    mbar's Avatar
    mbar is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars
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    Default Re: Water Test Results

    Welcome to the forum. What is the size and type of pool you have (vinyl, concrete, above or inground). You will not be able to test the difference in fc and cc, until you get Ben's kit. But you can manage until you do, by keeping up with the chlorine, and getting it checked at the pool store.

    First - you can put the stabilizer in the skiimmer while it is running, or you can put the stabilizer in a sock, or something and let it slowly dissolve in the pool. If you put it in the skimmer, you can't backwash for at least a week. Then put in the chlorine - I can't tell you how much till I know how big your pool is in gallons. With a cya of 0 you only need to bring your chlorine up to 10 as in the chart:


    Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
    => 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
    => 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
    => 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
    => 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
    => 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm

    You can use the regular test that may only go up to 5 by using the "shot glass method":

    You can double the reading to 10 by mixing equal amounts of pool water and steam-distilled water. I like to use the "Shot Glass Method" --One shot of pool water, one shot of distilled water. Mix and now measure. If the reading is "5ppm", you have 10ppm. You can keep going - 3 shots will take you to 15ppm and so forth.

    Until your cya starts to show in the pool, which could take a week, You will have to check your chlorine a couple of times a day and bring it back up to shock level until you have no more combined chlorine.

    The rest of your numbers are ok, your ph can be brought up to 7.4.

    Please feel free to ask any other questions you have.
    Northeast PA
    16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5

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