Opening Pool....Filter Builds Pressure Right Away...Is Normal?

[NullQwerty]

Hi folks,

New pool owner here. Opening pool which is a nice dark green color.

As soon as I start the pump and the filter fills with water, I start to add DE. It's supposed to take 6 lbs of DE, but by the time it has 1-2 lbs in it, the pressure is above 10 PSI (about 12 PSI) which it then says it needs a backwash (which I perform along with a drain).

Now, I knew I was going to need to do several backwashes, but I did at least 10-15 in a 2 hour period. Pretty much it would need it within 1 minute of operation. I've gone through an entire 25 lb bag and the pressure and timing isn't letting up.

I didn't even shock it because I knew I was going to run out of DE before I'd be able to let it run overnight. The skimmer basket and pump basket are free of debris.

So tomorrow, I'm gonna buy a 50 lb bag. Should I just stick with my same course of action (start pump, add 1-2 lbs of DE, notice it's at 12 PSI within the first minute, perform backwash, begin again), or is this not normal?

FYI: It's an inground pool with a Hayward EC-65 filter and Hayward Super Pump. Thanks!

[Waterworks]

My first recommendation is to skip the pressure gauge, for now. Backwash or clean only when the water entering the pool through your return fiiting is reduced fairly significantly. Let me know how this goes.

Brad

[MarkP45]

I had a similar problem last year. It was my first year with a mesh safety cover.
I had to backwash every 10 minutes. What worked for me was taking the filter apart and cleaning the grids. Once I put it back together the filtering was more reasonable.

To avoid the problem this year, I bought a black opaque cover - I don't know what this is called - it floats on the water like a solar cover but keeps out all the sunlight. THen mesh safety cover goes on top.
I also add 2 gallons of bleach into the pool (just dump it in) during Feb, March, April, and May. But I wouldn't recommend that if you've got a liner.

Good luck.

[NullQwerty]

The grids were cleaned as part of the winterizing process. Kinda hoping that it didn't get dirty so quick again because I've got one of the filters with like 20 bolts you have to remove to open it.

I think maybe tonight's plan of attack might be open the drain valve on the filter and vacuum right to waste. Do that for a while, then try the filtering process again.

Sound like a good plan? You guys think that'll help it?

[MarkP45]

NullQwerty - How's the progress?

[bbb]

DE filters clog up right away with live algae. It's totally normal. I have a Hayward with the 20 bolts so I know what I am talking about. Just keep on backwashing but not as often. Your comment that

I didn't even shock it because I knew I was going to run out of DE before I'd be able to let it run overnight.

is kind of backwards because (1) 12 psi is WAY too low to backwash while you are killing algae with *this* filter, as Waterworks said (you've got the one with the 'magic fingers', right?) - go with measuring the flow to figure it out, (2) bumping the filter to get some extra time is OK, and, most importantly (3) you need to kill off that algae with lots of chlorine.

Are you getting help from us in another part of the forum? What are your pool readings? Do you have one of the long white plastic Hayward Perflex "jet action cleaning wand" attachments for cleaning out the filter fingers furing backwashing? (they really help!)

Also, if you follow the pool closing and opening tips from this board next year you may well open up to a algae-free pool next year. Pouring some Polyquat into each corner of the pool under my safety cover in the early spring really does the trick for me.

[NullQwerty]

Hi all. I had started a new thread because this one was specific to the filter and I needed a plan of attack on how to open without the filter. I probably should have kept it as one and regret that now (sorry bbb). That thread is at http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1803 I'll continue on there from now on.

So, the last thing I had said was that I would vacuum to waste, but quickly found out that without a waste line, that's asking for trouble (where do I put all the water...it would kill my lawn, right?).

I did start bumping and draining at a higher PSI. Ussaully at about 20-25 PSI there was little to no water flow in the pool. That's when I did it, but unfortunately it only took a 1/2 hour or so for that to happen. I went through another 25 lb bag of DE this way, and without a seperation tank and waste line, I had to come up with another plan of action...and quick.

But then I found out I was mistaken in my thinking and it is safe to add certain chemicals to the pool despite not having the pump running. So, tonight I went to the pool store and bought 5 gallons of liquid chlorine shock and poured it all around the pool (did at about 5:00 pm this evening). Also, at the suggestion of the pool store guy, I have three 3" chlorine tablets in floaters.

I also bought the acid wash to clean the filter (just for good measure). I plan to do that in the morning.

So, in the morning I'm going to retake my readings. and see where I am.

My readings prior to adding the chemicals were:
Saturation Index: -0.7
TDS: 500
CYA: 70
Tot Chlorine: 0.3
Free Chlorine: 0.3
pH: 8.2
Demand Drops: 2
Total Alkalinity: 36
Adj. Total Alk.: 15
Total Hardness: 82

bbb...Didn't know about the Live Algae factor. Most people I've talked to seem to be shocked when they I hear I've gone through 50 lbs of DE, but it's nice to know that in fact it's not actually that uncommon. Also, I hadn't heard of the finger cleaners, but I definitly will pick that up. Thx

[NullQwerty]

Ok....So, things are looking good for me as far as the pool is concerned. That being the case, I still have the filter issue which is why I'm returning to this thread.

While my filter does last much longer than before, it still builds pressure quickly. Within 2-3 hours after a complete drain and new DE added, it hits 22 PSI.

Here's the weird part. I can get the pressure to drop to acceptable levels by turning off the pump and opening the air relief valve. When I stop hearing air moving from the relief valve, I'll close it and turn the pump on. Pressure ussually drops to an acceptable level. The drop in pressure will be even more significant if I keep the pump off for a couple of hours before restarting it.

(I'm not certain if the opening the relief valve has anything to do with it or not but I've made it apart of my routine).

I repeat this as many times as I can. As long as pressure drops, I let it run. When it stops dropping after doing the above, then I do a bump and drain.

What do you guys think? Is something wrong with my filter?