Spring Pool Opening Problems

[JRDLEE]

I'm still trying to get my in-ground pool open for the summer: 21K gal plaster, Polaris 380 pool cleaner with PB-4 booster pump, Sta-Rite P4-R6 pump, Triton II TR60 sand filter. The pH level hovers around 7.6-7.8, alkalinity at 80 ppm, and Cl shock level of 10 ppm. The pool filter runs 12+ hours each day, and the water is still a milky white with suspended solids. Use of a clarifier flocculant doesn't seem to do anything. I test twice a day, morning and evening with new OTO reagents so I don't think the test kit is faulty.

Last year, this milky white state only lasted for 1-2 days before the water turned clear and blue. This year, it's been almost a week and no clear blue water in sight as of yet.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Watermom]

Actually, the kit we recommend is a FAS-DPD kit which is better than a DPD kit. The Taylor K-2006 or 2006C is the one we suggest and you can get it through the test kit page in my signature below.

You should only backwash the filter when the pressure rises 8-10psi over clean filter pressure.

What kind of shock did you use -- meaning ingredients. What is your CYA level and your calcium hardness level? Your OTO kit won't be able to test for those two.

If available at YOUR Walmart (check availability), get the HTH 6-way DROPS test kit, which is compatible with the Taylor K2006. Test the pool as soon and you can, and post the results. If you get the 6-way kit, ALSO test the water you FILL the pool with, especially if it's a well, and post THOSE results as well. (The HTH is the best available kit you're likely to find locally, but it's not the K-2006. It can only provide rough measurements chlorine levels above 5 ppm, and it measures "TOTAL" hardness, rather than "CALCIUM" hardness, which is not ideal.)
Also, please fill in your pool's info in our pool chart to make it easier for us to help you.

Pool Chart Entry Form
Pool Chart Results

[JRDLEE]

Today's OTO test results:

Poolwater: pH 7.8; Cl ~8 ppm; alkalinity ~80 ppm; CYA estimated at 40 ppm after adding 4 lbs. of stabilizer for 21K gals. (assuming zero CYA level to begin with as only regular liquid chlorine was used for the past 2+ years)
Tapwater: pH 8.2; Cl < 0.5 ppm; alkalinity ~30 ppm
Water appearance: white with suspended solids, somewhat better than yesterday

I'm definitely getting a FAS-DPD test kit as recommended. Has anyone used any of the Lamotte Color Q test kits? These use a digital colorimeter tester than seems to be easier (and perhaps more accurate) than using color charts.

[Watermom]

Something Ben wrote recently in regards to the LaMotte kit vs. Taylor K-2006: There are a few alternatives; for example Lamotte makes an FAS-DPD kit that's OK -- but it costs 3x as much. But, we're not aware of any test that is better, and since we are all familiar with the K-2006 (and can help you with it) we recommend it exclusively ( Test kit info page )

Do you know what hp your pump is and how much sand your filter holds?

[aylad]

One thing that has been covered in this forum in the past is the fact that the ColorQ doesn't do very well with hardness levels--and it sounds like that may be part of your problem. Have you by chance been chlorinating with cal-hypo, and what is your calcium hardness level in the pool?

Janet

[JRDLEE]

From the Triton II Owners Manual: TR60 uses 325 lbs. of sand or sand/pea gravel for 3.14 sq. ft. of filtering area, 63 gpm flow rate @ 20 gpm/sq. ft. The Sta-Rite P4-R6 pump is 3/4-hp rated. If there's an upload area, I can upload the PDF docs for future reference as I've gathered all of the relevant guides, manuals, etc. for my particular pool configuration.

No idea what the Ca hardness level is by testing, but the annual water report from the SF Public Utilities Commission states the Ca level ranging from 2-26 ppm, with an average of 12 ppm. I've only been chlorinating with Sodium Hypochlorite (Clorox regular bleach in the bulk 1.42 gal. containers from Costco). Never used Ca Hypochlorite in this pool to best of my knowledge.

Today's OTO test results: pH 7.8; alkalinity ~80 ppm; Cl ~6 ppm. Water is still cloudy white but less so than yesterday. Progress seems to be made, albeit quite slowly. Filtration is still being run 12+ hrs. each day for about 1.5 total filtration cycles of the 21K gallon pool.

The links in the replies above don't seem to work for me being a new forum user. If possible, could alternative links be posted that newbies (i.e. me) can access? Many thanks.

[Watermom]

Which link isn't working for you?

Your pump and filter seem to be a pretty good size match.

Good decision to order the good kit. Two things I want you to try. Shock your pool up a little higher. With a CYA of 40, shock level would be 15ppm. Go ahead and take the chlorine up to that level and let's see if that makes any difference for you.

Also, can you let a reputable pool store test your CC and calcium hardness for you and post the results. You're probably right that the calcium isn't high by looking at the info you posted above, but let's just double check it to be sure. Plus, since it is a plaster pool, you really need to know the reading.

Actually, one last thing to do. This evening, test the chlorine after the sun is off the pool. Add enough bleach to get back to chlorine level of 15ppm. An hour or two later, test the chlorine again. Then, in the morning within two hours of sunrise, test the chlorine again. I'm trying to determine if you are losing chlorine overnight. When you lose more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight, that tells us you are fighting something in the water.

Your OTO kit isn't going to test cl levels higher than 5ppm. Until you get your good kit, you can force your kt to read higher with a dilution method described below. Each dilution does lose some accuracy, but it is better than nothing for now.

Testing Without a Good Kit

(A gallon should add about 3ppm of chlorine to a 21K pool.)

Run your pump 24/7 while you are trying to clear a pool.

[PoolDoc]

membership upgraded. -ben

(you can follow links, now.)

[JRDLEE]

Thank you for the membership upgrade! Much appreciated!

Tonight's update (Wed, Jun. 27 late evening):

pH: 8.0
Cl: 15+ ppm (with addition of 4.25 gals. of Clorox bleach at 9 PM, tested at 12 midnight)
alkalinity: ~80 ppm
water appearance: still cloudy white with "foamy" bubbles on the surface

What's with the foamy bubbles? First time I've ever seen this happen in this pool. The filtration pump is running 24 hours now, new test kits ordered, more bulk Cl on the way. The higher pH seems to be fine (as per the Pool Solutions guides) and the alkalinity is staying around 80 ppm with no effort. I'll test the Cl levels tomorrow early morning. Since I don't have the FAS-DPD test kit yet, the Cl test will be estimated by the 2:1 dilution method.

If the pool doesn't start clearing up soon, I may rethink trying to "open" it. Lily pads and salmon farming may be the way to go . . .

[aylad]

How's the pool looking now?

Janet