Sometimes the comparator colors in the K-1000 aren't as accurate so first off compare the comparator tubes of the K-1000 vs. the K-2006 to see if they match or are consistent. If not, then that's the main source of the problem. You can also do parallel pH measurements with samples in each tube and compare the color of the samples side-by-side. Remember that you aren't trying to match saturation, but rather hue. This can sometimes be tricky to do. You may find that you can use fewer pH Indicator drops in the K-2006 for a less intense color that is easier to match against the reference colors. The phenol red indicator is the same in both kits except for concentration and that should only affect saturation and not hue.

7.0 will be quite yellow while 7.5 will be more of an orange-red so they should be quite dramatically different. With CYA in the water, even a high FC doesn't affect the pH test until after a minute or so (i.e. that reaction is apparently slow). If you still find a significant difference in hue (after trying more or fewer drops of indicator to try and get the saturation level to be similar), then there may be something wrong with one of the indicator dyes. These are organic dyes and they do degrade over time which is why Taylor recommends replacing them once a year though in practice one can usually go 2 years before replacement. Taylor says that for the phenol red indicator dye "As it degrades, the solution changes from its original red color to a yellow or purple."