Newbie with MAJOR problem...

[waste]

Dayrl, I can't see how a $29 product could fix the leak, if you put it in with the system running, the air being drawn into the line would keep the sealant from getting where it needs to be, without the system running it could cause the same thing to your skimmer line that the concrete did to your MD. I'm thinking that getting the leak guys in there to let you know ~exactly where the problem is (again... IF THE COST OF HIRING THEM IS WORTH HAVING THE SKIMMER USEABLE) Depending on what they find, you may be able to fix it yourself or you may have to call in a pool company (but even if you have to 'call in the pros', you might be able to save some $ by doing some of the work yourself). If you decide to try the $29 fixit, don't let it in your filter, by it's nature that stuff will kill the filter. Wish I could check it out in person, but the next time I see Fla. will be out the window of the airplane when I go to the Bahamas in '08 - Good luck, keep us informed -- Ted

[MyBlueDog]

**UPDATE EVERYONE

I have determined that I have two separate things going on.

1. My 2" main drain is 50% blocked by concrete, left over from a resurfacing job done in 1992. Tihis is causing restricted water flow, and cavitation in my pump. (top 1/8 of my pump is continual air)

2. My skimmer line is broken, somewhere underground, anywhere from the bucket to the pump. (This is causing my water loss.)

I am hiring a reputable leak guy for $150 to pressure test the skimmer line and find the link using compressed air and the electro-detection.

So I've got two pretty good problems to contend with. To me, the most important is keeping water in the pool.

I'll keep working at the main drain crete using a screwdrive and dive tanks. My red knuckles, even with dive gloves, thank you.

D.L.

[MyBlueDog]

** PROBLEM(s) ISOLATED & LESSONS FOR EVERYONE

According to a local, reputable leak detection service, and the owner of that company who I know has done over 1,000 leak detections in the past 2 years, I have two (2) completely separate issues occuring with my in-ground pool.

1. Main drain 60% blocked with concrete and cause cavitation in pump, return bubbles into pool, a loud, noisy pump, and top 1/8 of pump lid to have air in it.

Cause: Shoddy construction 20 years ago, confirmed by previous pool owner.

Lessons Learned
a. Do as much as you can on your own... but know when to fork out cash to get an expert.

In my case, the leak detection cost me $150, and the company found what was happening in less than 45 minutes.

b. Attempt to contact the previous owner of your pool.

In my case, my neighbor told me the name of the people who built the pool. Since they were NOT the previous owner I bought the house from, I looked them up in the phone book. I got lucky and they still live in my town. I called him, and he was very nice and said he had all kinds of problems with the pool contractor. So much so he never paid them (until they filed a lien against him.) His words to me, "I am not at all surprised you found concrete in the main drain.

2. Skimmer is broken at or near top 90 PVC fitting.

a. Leak company found this via pressure test. To double cjeck, they even drilled a pilot hole into my pool deck next to the skimmer, inserted a rod about 12 inches through the concrete into the soil. It was soaking wet.

Lessons Learned
Whenever you suspect a leak, start plugging holes! In my case, I plugged the skimmer and the leak stopped. This helped the leak company save time and isolate the problem, and only cost me $150 (vs. many other services that charge 300-$500).


What's Next? What Are The Costs?

1. Continue very gently to pick at the concrete in my main drain using a screwdriver and my dive tanks. Or leave it alone. (Cost: Free, just my time and air refills. Note: Leak company won't touch this, due to concerns about harming main drain.)

Once I get my skimmer repaired (below) I can abandon the main drain, if I want.

2. Cut out my skimmer and replace/repair it. This will involve cutting the deck around the skimmer, approximately 2x2', with a concrete saw, jackhammering the concrete, and getting underneath approximately 12-18" below the deck to attempt to make the repair. No... I'm not fooling with this. Cost: $700-$1,500. Repair/replacement is guaranteed by the leak repair company.

While I could use the $700-$1,500 elsewhere, that's for sure, it's worth making the repair for the long-haul and not fooling around with this.