Pump Doesn't Pump....Just Hums

[NullQwerty]

Hey folks,

Just bought a house with an IG pool (and I'm new to pools). I'm trying to open it for the summer. I've removed the return jet caps and put in the eyeballs. Replaced the skimmer basket.

I filled the pump with water (Hayward SuperPump), but when I start it, it seems like nothing is happening. The return jets aren't spraying any water. The Filter's (Hayward EC-65 DE) gauge doesn't change pressure. But the pump does start humming, so I know it's on.

I've tried both with the filters air bleeder open and with it closed.

I googled the problem and found one site that said if the pump hums but doesn't seem to work that the impeller in the pump is most likely clogged and you should unclog it by hand. However, on this pump it seems the empeller is enclosed and you can't reach it by hand.

Is the problem truly the impeller, and if so, how do I unclog it?

Thanks a ton!

[wollypog6]

Take the basket out of the pump. Stick your finger in the hole at the bottom of the pump. You should be able to feel the impeller. If it spins freely then you know the problem isn"t a blocked impeller.

[NullQwerty]

Can't seem to reach the impeller...just the diffuser. Before I try to open it, the owner's manual said that if the motor hums but does not run, then look for these 2 things:

1. Governor is stuck in open position
2. Open Capacitor

I don't know what either of those mean. Do you guys know what those mean and how I can check them?

Thx!

[Poconos]

Well, there is no governor. What they are referring to is the starter switch. There are two windings on these motors. A running and starting winding. The starting is in series with a capacitor. Once the motor comes up to speed the centrifugal switch opens the starting winding. A simple thing to try is when you turn on the pump, try whacking it with a piece of 2x4...not enough to dent anything. If it is dirty switch contacts it may start when you shock it. If it does, simple fix. Some 400 grit sandpaper. The switch is under the back cover. Can dig up a pic if needed.
Al
an additional note...if the capacitor was shorted or something is jamming the shaft, the hum would be quite loud and either a thermal breaker would open of whatever circuit breaker is feeding the pump would trip. i.e. high current.

[waste]

Null and wolly, welcome both! to the forum!!
Not only do I believe I have the answer to this ?, but also the cause and solution. A clogged impeller doesn't cause the motor to hum, it would sound normal - except there would be no flow and subsequently, no readable pressure on the gauge. The humming is caused by the shaft being seized up by oxidation (most common cause, however it could be a rock wedged inbetween the impeller and housing, but that's rare) However, the fix could be easy or hard:

Easy, remove lid and basket, put a flathead screwdriver (at least 6") into the back end of the housing (the hole where the basket would cover on the back side) angle it up and try to torque it. If you get some movement, replace the basket, re prime the pump and put the lid on and fire the pump up.

Hard, kill the power to the pump, open the back of the motor (using a small 'regular' screwdriver or a 1/4" nut driver to unscrew the two securing bolts - if the problem is what I think, you'll have to use the 'flat'(regular) screwdriver to pry the cover off, and possibly a hammer to get it off) (the bolts won't come out of the cover, so don't waste your time trying to get them all the way out, but be sure that they aren't still 'threaded in') Using a 7/16 open end wrench try to 'lock on' to the back end of the shaft (it's dead center of the pump, has 2 flat sides hidden behind a white plastic ~triangle that has 2 copper strips ending in white plastic rings forming another triangle) Odds are you won't be able to get the 7/16 wrench on it (there's only 1 clear path to get the wrench in there and the shaft usually isn't positioned to accept it ;( ) - watch out for the capacitor (the black tube that's about the size of a 'D' cell battery, if you touch it's posts, you'll get shocked). However, if you can lock on the shaft, work the wrench up and down a few times, if it moves for you put everything back together and fire up the pump, should work. Be sure to look for water dripping out of the bottom of the pump if you get it going, if you see some look at the next paragraph.

If neither of these work, contact me and I'll walk you through replacing a pump, impeller, or shaft seal, hopefully it won't be necessary for you
Sorry to be so verbose, I'll let it go now, if there are ?s - simply ask (I'm trying to describe stuff I do all the time, so it's hard for me to know how clear I'm making the description)

However,late as it is, I promised the probable cause: if you keep your pump in the same area as your chlorine (esp. pucks) the cl gasses released in a ~small area will oxidize any obliging metal in the immediate area, and all metals oblige

[NullQwerty]

Thanks for these excellent responses! When I get home from work tonight, I'll begin work on trying out these suggestions. I'll post back then with the outcome. Thanks again!

[turnerd]

Thanks for these excellent responses! When I get home from work tonight, I'll begin work on trying out these suggestions. I'll post back then with the outcome. Thanks again!

Did you try filling the basket area with water.. maybe it needs priming.

[NullQwerty]

Awesome. Got it working. Took off the motor. The impeller (or it might have been the diffuser) was just a bit stuck. I slowly started spinning it, and gradually it freed up. Reassembled it, started it up, and bam we were good to go.

Thx for all the great help and advice!

[skantner]

You saved me! I just went out to the pool and got my pump started by following this mostly verbatim...right down to the wrench size. I had to move some electrical components out of the way to get the wrench in. I did manage to avoid getting shocked by the capacitor, though now it is time to shock the pool...

Thanks a million!

//Scott

Null and wolly, welcome both! to the forum!!
Hard, kill the power to the pump, open the back of the motor (using a small 'regular' screwdriver or a 1/4" nut driver to unscrew the two securing bolts - if the problem is what I think, you'll have to use the 'flat'(regular) screwdriver to pry the cover off, and possibly a hammer to get it off) (the bolts won't come out of the cover, so don't waste your time trying to get them all the way out, but be sure that they aren't still 'threaded in') Using a 7/16 open end wrench try to 'lock on' to the back end of the shaft (it's dead center of the pump, has 2 flat sides hidden behind a white plastic ~triangle that has 2 copper strips ending in white plastic rings forming another triangle) Odds are you won't be able to get the 7/16 wrench on it (there's only 1 clear path to get the wrench in there and the shaft usually isn't positioned to accept it ;( ) - watch out for the capacitor (the black tube that's about the size of a 'D' cell battery, if you touch it's posts, you'll get shocked). However, if you can lock on the shaft, work the wrench up and down a few times, if it moves for you put everything back together and fire up the pump, should work. Be sure to look for water dripping out of the bottom of the pump if you get it going, if you see some look at the next paragraph.

[waste]

Scott, welcome to the forum!! glad ! to have helped.

For both you and Nullqwerty (Null, do you use the Dovorac {sp?} keyboard?), I reiterate to check the bottom of the motor for drips, when the shaft seizes up, the shaft seal assembly usually goes too. Just trying to save y'all some lost water and more headaches. - Waste