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Thread: What chemicals do we Need for New Pool?

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    Join Date
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    Default What chemicals do we Need for New Pool?

    Our pool will be here today. We have the ground level and ready. The pool in the Intex 32x16x52 Ultra Metal Frame AGP. It has a 2650 gal/hour sand filter and we are adding the Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System. I know we need #20 silica sand for the filter and 400 lbs. of salt. What else for the start up? We want to make sure we do it right. This forum is great and we really appreciate the help.

    SSowell in East Texas

  2. #2
    CarlD's Avatar
    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    Default Re: What chemicals do we Need for New Pool?

    You'll need a good test kit. For now, get yourself an OTO/pH kit at your local pool store, or, if you have a Wal-Mart, get their 6-way Drop testing kit for now. But for any and all pools we recommend the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C kit you can get to via the link in my sig. Watch out that you don't get the K-2005. The K-2006 uses the best chlorine test, the FAS-DPD test. The K-2005 has the DPD test which is problematic.

    You'll just need basic chemicals. 1 gallon of 6% ultra-Bleach (yes, bleach) will get you started to about 4.5ppm of FC (free Chlorine) so you should add it as you are filling. (I'm guessing you'll have about 15,000 gallons).
    Here's what I think you should have: (B-B-B System---Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda)
    1) Bleach. Plain, ordinary laundry bleach, unscented, non-sudsing. Several gallons handy.
    2) 20 Mule-Team Borax. This raises pH if the water gets too acid. ONLY ADDED IF NEEDED!
    3) a 4lb box of Baking Soda--Yeah, Arm&Hammer or generic. This raises "Total Alkalinity" (not the same as pH) ONLY ADDED IF NEEDED!
    4) Dry Acid or Muriatic Acid--this lowers pH. You can get Dry Acid at pool stores or Wal-Mart. ONLY ADDED IF NEEDED.
    5) IsoCyanuric Acid, aka, Stabilizer, aka Cyanuric Acid or CYA. Stabilizer keeps your chlorine from breaking down too fast. You'll need to get it to the level of 60-80ppm because your saltwater system will require it (read the manual for the recommended #!) CYA (as we all call it) takes a long time to dissolve, like a week, so that takes time.
    6) Either a drop test or test strips specifically for salt in saltwater systems. Your system SHOULD have it but the test is handy to double check.
    7) ***Optional: Polyquat 60%. This is the ONLY algaecide we recommend. It can be called various things but if the ONLY active ingredient is "Poly....<something unpronounceable> ... 60%" that's the stuff. Anything else should be avoided. For startup, in clean water, I'd use 1-2 ounces per week.
    8) ***Optional: DE powder. Just a 5-10 lb box will last you YEARS. A little bit in your skimmer (like 1/4 cup), just enough to raise your water pressure 1 PSI can significantly improve the clarity of your water. Many of us use it. I'm still on the same box after 4-5 years.

    That's it for now!

    Welcome!

    Carl
    Last edited by Watermom; 06-12-2012 at 09:32 PM.
    Carl

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