Newbie just beginning to understand "free" and "total" chlorine. . .

[waterbear]

I have never known magensium to turn water green but wonder if you might have any copper or brass plumbing on your well? That could explain the green water (acidic water going through the metal pipes or fittings).
If you have used a 'metal out' product (seqeustrant) then it is entirely possible that your water would test negative for metal even when they are present (but sequestered).

[Hainsworth]

Thanks Janet and Waterbear,

There is no copper on the well line or on the way our to the hydrant, there are probably two brass fittings between the well and the fill hydrant, but certainly not enough to cause discoloration in fill water, especially now that the incoming ph has been corrected to darn near 7.0.

The neutralizer media is 10% magnesium oxide which combines with water to form magnesium hydroxide (a base) thus raising the pH of my incoming acidic water. My research says that magnesium hydroxide combines with chlorine to form magnesium chloride (a salt) which I think shouldn't be a problem in the pool, but also isn't doing any work for me either . Unless my SWGC can break it down too, but I have no idea. . . .

The (again VERY slight) coloration to the water goes away with 2 to 3 days normal filter operation after a fill. It really only got my attention because we didn't have anything like it last year (first year for pool) . . . but that was BEFORE we got the neutralizer up and running. So, ironically, last year we were much more likely to have been adding some trace metals since we were adding pH 4.9 fill water that was surely leaching stuff from my hydrant, etc.! I'm thinking that the slight color cast after a fill is the effect of the magnesium compounds going through their changes when they hit the chlorine, and that after 2-3 days they're all magnesium chloride and the color cast is gone. I plan on bypassing the neutralizer the next time I need to fill and see what happens, if nothing, I'll assume I'm right.

In the meantime, I've added a borate buffer and am lowering my carbonate alk (per your instructions on the forum) to try and stabilize my pH - it was always creeping up as I (now) understand is normal for a SWCG system.

I do know why it happens, but I still can't believe that a pool company would sell you a system and not teach you the hows and whys of it's operation. That makes me nuts! So grateful to have found your forum so early in my days of pool ownership . . .Thanks all!

[BigDave]

If you do bypass and add pH 4.9 water to your pool, be sure to have plenty of Borax on hand.

[Hainsworth]

Thanks BigDave!

Will do. Intereseting to note that last year, when all fill was 4.9, we never had a pH reading below 7.7. I guess that a little bit of 4.9 made up for the SWCG pH creep. I'm only using "fill water" for incedental loss due to splash out or evaporation when it's dry so it's not too much (fow now). Didn't need any fill at opening because mother nature did if for me over the winter , and it opened at 7.5!

[aylad]

I do know why it happens, but I still can't believe that a pool company would sell you a system and not teach you the hows and whys of it's operation. That makes me nuts! So grateful to have found your forum so early in my days of pool ownership . . .Thanks all!

I find that most folks that work in a lot of the pool companies (at least around here) don't actually own pools, and if you've never actually used a product yourself, you don't know the hows and whys, either. Just about anybody can read a set of instructions for a product and tell you what it's "supposed" to do, but having folks who actually have practiced what they preach makes all the difference. I'm still waiting for ANYBODY to report that a salesman who sold them an Intex pool warned them that metals from well water could be an issue for them!!

Janet