Dave --- he states above that he has the Taylor K-2006 so there is no need for him to get the HTH 6-Way kit.
Dave --- he states above that he has the Taylor K-2006 so there is no need for him to get the HTH 6-Way kit.
Its been over an hour after dumping 10 gallons of liquid chlorine 10% and I attempted to test the FC chlorine but the sample wasn't clearing up after over 100 drops so I stopped. I did a test strip test and of course all the squares are off the charts. I hope I didn;t put too much in.
Watermom, I posted while markcobra's post was still in mod queue.
markcobra, While the FAS-DPD test can be bleached out, it is far less likely than DPD or strips. Also if you put two scoops of powder in the the 10ml sample and swirl it you will porbably see a flash of pink before it bleaches out a third may turn it pink. No flash, no pink, no chlorine. No chlorine, go after it with bleach adding 6 gallons 6%, let it mix and then test - you should start seeing CC if you're fighting ammonia.
I think you went a little overboard with the liquid chlorine. 10 gallons of 10% l would have added about 43ppm of chlorine. See what you have in the morning.
Thanks for all the replies keep them coming! I have to go to work but I did quick aquachek test strip and FC is very dark purple. PH is a little. TA and CYA seem good. Will do a test with K2006 when i get home. Using the drops for FC and not getting the sample to turn clear means I got alot of chlorine in there? I added over 100 drops and it wasn't turning at all.
I guess whatever was going on is gone since I put alot of liquid chlor in? Should I let the chlorine come down a little now over the next few days on its own?
The 2 gallon bucket test has no FC in it.
I did test for ammonia before dumping chlorine in and it was 0. How long until this chlorine goes down? Its sunny here today and I left filter on all night.
Just got home and did a quick test strip again and according to that thing are in line except chlorine is high but alot less dark purple than it was. Pool absolutely looks fantastic.
My question what do I use to maintain chlorine in the pool? Should I continue with the trichlor pucks in floater? I'd like to stick with liquid chlorine to shock. Not gonna use powder anymore after I use up my last 3 bags.
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I guess I had algae on my walls even though I had been shocking and scrubbing walls I could never get them clean because those walls now look super clean. Ammonia levels were 0 before I chlorinate bombed the pool. Phosphate level is rather high around 400. I just put a liter of pool perfect with phos free in skimmer. Gonna let it run for 48 hours. Pressure is around 24 so I may have to backwash. Gonna post a Taylor reading in a little bit.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-03-2012 at 05:30 PM. Reason: combine sequential posts
When you post your numbers, be sure that CYA is one of them. Whether or not you can continue to use the trichlor pucks depends on what your CYA level is.
I wish you hadn't added the Phos Free. I'm going to encourage you not to add any additional stuff to the water unless you run it past us first here on the forum. Most of the time, what pool stores tell you to add is not needed and often makes a mess of your water. I'm pretty certain you didn't need the Phos Free. I've never seen a pool yet that did.
Ok. I have the aquachek strips for Phosphates that where I got the number. So I put my polaris in and it must be kicking up some dust cause the pool is getting cloudy or is it the phosfree?
Taylor results:
FC 5
CC .04
PH 7.2
CYA 41
Mark
20 yr old 23K gal concrete pool; DE filter; PF:5
Dumb question...I'm gonna go shock with 3lbs of cal-hypo. Should I let the filter run all night?
I can't get enough of this site LOL... you guys are the best! No more listening to pool store for me.
20 yr old 23K gal concrete pool; DE filter; PF:5
Not necessarily. I guess if you are just broadcasting the cal hypo, you don't have to run it at all.
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