You can't depend on test strips to be accurate enough to balance pool water. They can tell you that there is, or is not, chlorine, but won't reliably tell you how much. You really need drop-based testing, so I reiterate the advice I gave you above about the test kits. If you have zero chlorine on your test strips, it could be that you're fighting something in the water, or that the chlorine level is so high that it's bleaching out the strips. With your pool having a liner, you need to know which it is, in order not to bleach your liner out. Also, if your pH truly is 6.3, you need to get some Borax in the pool quickly, before the pH damages your liner. Anything below 7.0 is acidic and can be bad news. I encourage you to at least get the OTO kit, which can be purchased very cheaply, and double-check that number. I wouldn't worry about the TA for right now, that can be adjusted later on.

A very common scenario, and more common this year than before, is that some folks have closed for the winter with high CYA levels, and then the pool went green over the winter. There is a bacteria present when this happens that can degrade the CYA into several byproducts, one of which is ammonia. When this happens, it takes a HUGE amount of chlorine to overcome, but it must be done in order to be able to hold a chlorine level for the rest of the summer. But again, without accurate numbers, there's no way to tell whether this is the case with your pool.

I know it's tempting to drain and start over, but you really can get this back into good shape fairly easily. Besides, if you drain an IG pool with a liner, you'll float the liner and end up having to replace it.