Jim,
One of the principles of the B-B-B system is regular testing. I advocate spending 2 minutes a day testing your chlorine and pH levels, which, with a decent OTO/pH kit. We also advocate a full weekly suite of testing with a proper FAS-DPD chlorine test kit, including FC (free chlorine), CC (combined chlorine) TC (total chlorine which = FC + CC), pH, TA (Total Alkalinity) and CYA/Stabilizer. If you have a concrete or tile pool, or other hard substance, we suggest the CH, for calcium hardness levels.
With proper testing you will never guess about when to shock and when not to. If your pool is properly maintained, your FC is consistently in the proper range for your CYA level, your CC is 0, and your pH is good, then, unless you have algae or someone defecates or vomits in your pool, you have no reason to shock it. This is true whether you have an SWCG unit or not (I don't).
The key is "When Properly Maintained" -- and the only way to do that is with consistent testing and prompt correction of little problems before they become big ones. Ultimately, it saves you vast amounts of both time and money.
Now I'm not the expert on SWCG systems but here's what I do know: Most manufacturers recommend a CYA level of 60-90ppm. Check your manual. Whatever your CYA level is, your FC level should always be AT LEAST 5% of that. So with a CYA level of 60, your FC should never be below 3ppm. CYA=80ppm? FC should be above 4ppm.
If you get into a situation where you have significant CC levels (above .5) you'll need to shock your pool. The BEST shock to use with an SWCG is good old bleach/liquid chlorine. It just works with the least side effects.
But...back to your original question, no, you don't simply shock for shocking's sake. You do it when you need to. On good test kit (we recommend the Taylor K-2006--you can get to it by the link in my sig) will pay for itself many, many times over its initial cost.
BTW, I'm pretty sure it's our same Waterbear--and his advice is sound.
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