OK, I will get that test kit ASAP. In the meantime, based on amounts of bleach I have used, my chlorine levels should be 15-20 at the least, which is where I want to be for now, right?
The 6-Way kit does not read higher than 5. Only a FAS-DPD test can. That is why we encourage people to buy the Taylor K-2006 or 2006C kit.
OK, I will get that test kit ASAP. In the meantime, based on amounts of bleach I have used, my chlorine levels should be 15-20 at the least, which is where I want to be for now, right?
16'x32' oval 15K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward cartridge filter; Hayward 3/4 hp pump; 3/5/2012hrs; Taylor 2006c; utility water; summer: none; winter: vinyl / water bags; ; PF:8
Just one emendation: the 6-way does not READ higher than 5 ppm, but it does INDICATE higher levels, by a transition from dark yellow (~10 ppm) to orange (~30 ppm) to brown (> 60 ppm).
This is a VERY important difference from the DPD color match tests, which can bleach out and read 0.0 at FC levels as low as 15 ppm! Before we began pushing OTO *or* DPD-FAS kits, we used to have lots of problems with people adding more and more chlorine to their pool, think they had none, when in fact it was way too high.
Yes, my test kit does go very yellow, to orange, which is where I am at right now this afternoon. I am keeping it there until tomorrow. It looks like it is holding on its own, and it is pretty sunny today.
I have added a home made aerator because my next problem is to lower TA. When this is making bubbles on my water, I am now getting some foaminess. Is that as a result of all the soda ash I added previously? Water looks very blue but still cloudy.
16'x32' oval 15K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward cartridge filter; Hayward 3/4 hp pump; 3/5/2012hrs; Taylor 2006c; utility water; summer: none; winter: vinyl / water bags; ; PF:8
Foaming is usually the result of cheap algaecides being added.
Foamy pool water usually is a result of algaecide use.
Looks like PoolDoc and I were posting at the same time!
(P.S. I'm glad to know that he knew the correct answer! )
Maybe not ideal but your sticky on measuring Cl with a cheap kit might make things a little more accurate?
http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/how-...d-testkit.html
33,000ish gallon, 20X40 IG Vinyl Liner, no heater. Full sun, Sand filter. Been pool stored more times than I can count, not anymore! Thanks PF!
20'x40' rectangle 33K gal IG pool; Bleach; Hayward sand filter; AO Smith 1HP pump; 14hrs; Taylor K2006; utility water; summer: ; winter: ; iPhone; PF:3.6
I am headed to the store to get some distilled water. I am really curious what my chlorine level is at. After numerous tests today, it appears as though it has remained stable (shock level). I am really curious why the water is still so cloudy. Is it possible to reach a point where there is no chlorine load anymore but the water still remains cloudy? I still believe that I added too much soda ash at the recommendation of the local pool store. I think all the excess soda ash is just in suspension? If that is the case, what should I do?
16'x32' oval 15K gal IG vinyl pool; liquid chlorine; Hayward cartridge filter; Hayward 3/4 hp pump; 3/5/2012hrs; Taylor 2006c; utility water; summer: none; winter: vinyl / water bags; ; PF:8
Nah! Soda ash is extremely soluble. And yes, pool water can be cloudy AFTER there's no longer any chlorine demand. There are at least a dozen reasons why that can be the case.
It's usually NOT worthwhile to try to figure out exactly what's going on . . . unless your purpose in having a pool is so you can do water treatment experiments! Instead, get your water right; get your filter right . . . and then wait!
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