Hi Zac;
My Hi pH page on PoolSolutions, basically says that you shouldn't fight your pH more than you have to, and that higher pH levels aren't necessarily a disaster. It does not say, "Thou shalt run a high pH", but it seems sometimes to be taken that way. Right now, you should try to stay between 7 and 8.
Also, people tend to think all the test values are independent of each other. This too is not quite correct. Especially when you are cleaning up a swamp, all sort of things are going on that push the pH first one way, and then the other. If you had a chart with accurate test results and dosing actions listed every 4 hours, I might could tell you why your pH jumped, or maybe Chem_Geek could . . . but it's hardly worth it.
Here's a simple fact: even when you follow the BBB method -- and used the fewest and simplest chemicals possible -- a pool's chemistry is MUCH too complex to fully model or comprehend. An analytical model of nothing more than the relationship between chlorine and stabilizer requires 14 equations -- and there are many relationships in pools besides that one. If you are working on a graduate degree in analytical chemistry, then it might be worthwhile to try to establish a comprehensive model of what's happening in your pool.
But, if you just want to enjoy your pool -- or at least, not work yourself to death on it -- it would probably better just do respond to what's going on in your pool in the most direct and simplest method possible, and not worry too much about why it's happening that way.
Regarding your trichlor . . . given that you have a high pH and a low CYA, I think this would be a good opportunity to use some of those tablets optimally: they will both chlorinate your pool, add CYA, and lower the pH, and you need all three functions! Unlike the trichlor, the granular CYA will keep indefinitely..
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