400 cya

[PoolDoc]

@Atkinson40: Regarding the pH meter, take a look at this page:
Do-I-Need-a-pH-Meter (Am-I-Color-Blind?)


@Aylad: "gimongous"????

[atkinson40]

@Atkinson40: Regarding the pH meter, take a look at this page:
Do-I-Need-a-pH-Meter (Am-I-Color-Blind?)


@Aylad: "gimongous"????

Thanks Ben,

I passed the color blind tests. So I'll hold off on the PH meter. I thought maybe the taylor kit wouldn't work testing PH with my cya so high.

I have a non-taylor kit and tested the PH and chlorine. PH is ideal and chlorine is darker than 5.

===========================================

One more question. I'm going to vent the pool water into my backyard. I have an orchard of over 100 fruit trees. Will any of the chemicals I've put in the pool hurt the trees? I use a copper funguscide on the trees during the dormant season. Will the copper algaecide I've been been putting in the pool hurt the trees

Thanks kevin

[PoolDoc]

OK.

1. CYA will drop over time -- like a couple of seasons. It will be VERY important to not let the pool get slimy over the winter; if you do, you'll probably have to drain and refill.

2. High chlorine can interfere with pH test results; high CYA does not. You may yet have to get a pH meter, but let me check.

3. Some of the questions you've asked can be answered better, if we know your equipment: pump / filter make & model.

4. I got the pool photo you sent -- does the pool look like that right now? What color / location / texture is the algae you have. Regardless, if you have algae, go ahead and add a quart of the poly quat (36K gallons, right?).

5. When are you going to be "venting" pool water? Why? How much?

6. Do you have any copper staining, from the algaecides? When did you add those? Exactly how much did you add, and what was the exact product name? How important is it to you to NOT have blue-green stains?


If you've got some algae now, you'll probably need some sodium bromide, to create a free halogen residual. But, we can wait a bit longer on that.

[aylad]

@Aylad:[/B] "gimongous"????

My youngest daughter's favorite descriptive non-word....

[atkinson40]

3. pump / filter make & model.

4. I got the pool photo you sent -- does the pool look like that right now?

5. When are you going to be "venting" pool water? Why? How much?

6. How important is it to you to NOT have blue-green stains?

3. Pool Pump is Is Hayward. Filter is DE cartridge filter. I don't have a backwash valve so I need to take of the top of the filter canister and clean the cartridges by hand. I sent an image to your email.

4. I took that image yesterday. Algae is green, along the sides of the pool. I can't tell the texture because it is a very thin film in the roughness of the pool surface.

5. I'm going to be venting pool water when I vacuum. Right now the bottom is covered with a fine silt from all the additions of the algaecide. The silt has a blue tint to it. Cleaning the filter is a pain in the pompous and I thought I'd kill 2 birds with one stone. Every time I vacuum, I'll be reducing the CYA by venting some water and at the same time not plugging up my filter.

Draining my pool will cost $500-$600 in water here in this desert of San Diego. If I do it a little at a time, over time, my water bill won't be so big. Also if the water vent won't hurt my trees, they need the water. During the summer my H20 bill is about $200 a month to keep them happy.

6. No copper stains that I can see. I don't care if I get some. The only thing I care about is no algae. The county of San Diego flies over in helicopters and takes pictures of pools that are green and then comes knocking on your door demanding a fix or a fine and they will add some pesticide to your pool for mosquitoes if you don't act. Don't want that.

I've added about 6 quarts of this product over the last 2 months. Its the only thing that's been effective against the algae.

http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool...rol/14018.html

Thanks Kevin

[PoolDoc]

The county of San Diego flies over in helicopters and takes pictures of pools that are green and then comes knocking on your door demanding a fix or a fine and they will add some pesticide to your pool for mosquitoes if you don't act.

Wow! I've joked about the Swimming Pool Police, on occasion. But I never knew that there were any such things!

[atkinson40]

How high am I going to run the Chlorine? Can I test it accurately with the CYA so high? Do I still need to add the bleach with the chlorine reading over 5ppm? Thanks Kevin

[PoolDoc]

How high am I going to run the Chlorine?

Depends on your actual CYA level. We won't know till you get the K2006.

Can I test it accurately with the CYA so high?

Yes, but I'll need to walk you through it, and you'll need a gallon of distilled water (water section at Walmart), and something like a stainless 1/4 cup measuring cup.

Do I still need to add the bleach with the chlorine reading over 5ppm?

You EITHER have to use higher chlorine (very dark yellow to orange) OR you have to use an algaecide.

[atkinson40]

My Taylor test kit came. What tests do I now run and how? CYA?? Thanks kevin

[PoolDoc]

Yes, please, and pH and chlorine.

Given that you already suspect a CYA > 200 ppm, may I suggest you test a diluted sample, like this:

1. Collect 1/2 cup of pool water
2. Add 1/2 cup of tap water & mix
3. Fill your CYA sample bottle to the first line.
4. Add your CYA reagent & mix
5. Wait 60 seconds, and mix again
6. Wait 30 seconds
7. Hold the sample tube at waste height, outside in good light but not direct sun
8. Add CYA mix to the tube until the dot at the bottom disappears.
9. Read the scale on the side of the tube, corresponding to the sample level inside the tube.
10. Multiply this reading x2 -- that is your CYA result in ppm.