Mixing Sand and Concrete ????

[hrsdennis]

Hi Aranon, I have been reading but had nothing to add as I have not done this before, with the sand and concrete. On our indoor oval displays that need to be built up 2" we use styrafoam.

Your way sounds good as long as it sets hard and you have a way to keep it in place.

Later, Dennis

[Aranon]

I'm so confused. I almost want to move the pool out to the middle of the yard and set it up conventionally. Nothing is level where I am putting it. One end on the sidewalk the supports set right on top of the concrete and the other end (There are six on each flat side) are 2" above the concrete which means I have to fill 4" of something just to get level with the galvanized support bases/ (double 2x4 metal C-Channel). This is turning into a nightmare.
But thanks for the support. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears. I am at a stand still and I wanted to get the pool up by next week when school is out. Please, any advise?
Aranon

[hrsdennis]

Would it be possible to raise the entire area with some fill material? That would make leveling easier and you would have something to sink your side supports into.

I think I would look in that direction if it were me.

Dennis

[JJ in Tx]

Aranon,
I can't put a time on the cement setting up too many variables. If you feel you need to add a tad bit more cement or a light misting of water that would be alright, I just wouldnt recommend soaking it down. Most of the time with a cement stabilized sand you are compacting it so that is where your gaining your bearing strength. I think your form would work but I have to admit I do prefer Dennis raise the whole area suggestion. I think you would be happier in the long run if you where able to raise the area up to the height of the sidewalk and compact it well.
JJ

[haze_1956]

As I understand this, you are worried about sand running out from under the bottom rail

You should only need the cement/sand six to eight inches on each side of the rail

Possibly you could use something like the following :

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...s/poolbase.jpg

[Aranon]

Wow. you can draw the most awesome rocks. Great picture. Great Idea. I've started something like that. I am shooting a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle down to the concrete with a Hilti Pop Gun and then cutting a 1 x4 scribed to follow the downward slope of the sidewalk to keep the top of the 1 x ? level. Then I am pouring about a 6" wide concrete to level with the board that will fit under the rail or so the rail sets on top of it sits level.

For the oval, I bought 10' lengths of the metal landscape edging from Home Depot with stakes and am going to level that and pour about a 6" wide strip level with the rest of the pool and then fill the interior with the 8 to 1 sand to Portland cement mixture and rake it smooth and then drag a board to make it perfectly level with the edges and the 2" buttress galvanized C-channels and hopefully this will smooth out everything level, straight and true so I may lay my 2" foam on top of all that. I bought the Gorilla Pad and not sure to put it on top of my foam or under it to protect from nut grass and roots. The Gorilla pad does not look very impressive. Looks like just plain ol heave white felt. I'm sure its something different but thats what it looks like with lots of folds and wrinkles that I am sure I will not be able to get out. That why I think I might want just the foam under the liner vs the Gorilla pad, because I don't think I could make it look as smooth.

I did not think about putting 6 mil plastic under the pool like your picture shows. I got some so I guess I could do that too.

Do you think what I have describe above will be OK. I am almost through with it.

Oh and I came up with a way to level my concrete blocks. I bought 1 foot pieces of 1/2" re-bar and drove the in the ground where my blocks would go and used the Transit to make them all the same height and the set my blocks to make sure they were all level and the were. I made sure the hole was about an inch deeper than I had to be and poured concrete in the hole about a 1/2 higher than the re-bar sticking out and set the concrete pads on the re-bar and let it settle on to the re-bar. Checked my level and now I have perfectly leveled concrete pads set in concrete with all the gaps filled up underneath them and the are move sturdy then when I just tried to dig and scrape level. I always had little gaps under them that I thought might settle out.

Thanks for all the advise. I will take pictures.

Aranon

[haze_1956]

You will have a 6 inch wide, solid concrete strip, under the perimeter rails and the 8-1 mix under the entire pool ? Just make sure the mix it is hard, or you might end up with very permanent footprints in the bottom of the pool

Frost might be a potential problem, but it likely could be, with any design.

Your plan seems more than adequate !

Best of luck.

[NWMNMom]

Just another alternative for the next person, we had to raise the entire area up 6" and so far it appears that it will work well - we used Class 5 fill (also called Class 13 in other areas - used for parking lots, roads - packs and dries HARD) Used a plate compactor x6 times over the area by quadrants - extended 24" out from pool frame with a very slight slope on the edge for drainage, framed by 6" high x 2" thick concrete edgers.

[Aranon]

Thanks all. This is more work than I thought. But its for my three boys so it's got to be worth it. I don't think foot prints would be much of a problem because the 2" foam board is going to go over it. Frost won't be much of a problem because we are just east of Dallas. Hardly ever freezes here at least enough to be much of a heave problem. I will let you know how it turns out. Seem to be so busy at work and the kids functions after work in evenings with schools ending I can't work on it as fast as I want to. Should have the perimeter poured and sand compacted this weekend. Maybe the liner up by Memorial Day. I hope.

Aranon