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Thread: Chemical Help

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    Normally, you want your CC level to at or below the lowest reading on your chlorine test. So, if you are using the FAS-DPD at the 1 drop = 0.5 ppm dilution, than you want a CC of 0.5 or less. If you are doing the 0.2 ppm dilution, than you want 0.2 ppm or less.

    CC is chlorine that attached goo -- usually people goo -- but didn't finish the job. On an outdoor pool exposed to sunlight, you'll rarely have significant CC levels if
    1. you chlorinate CONSISTENTLY;
    2. you don't add pool store goo;
    3. you haven't just had a ginormous pool party, with all sorts of people getting lotion or pee in the pool.

    But, during start up, things are different. I could explain more, but it would probably just be confusing. Just add the borax and bleach and keep using the tabs, and let us know what's going on, every couple of days -- unless something goes wrong. You *should* see a clearing pool, rising FC levels, and dropping CC levels.

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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    Ok I added more bleach and the next day FC 1.5 CC 6 pH 7.2, not good.

    I went to sams and started with pucks, and added 3 gal of bleach along with the borax. We will see what happens tomorrow.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    Yeah, it looks like you've got CYA converted to ammonia in your pool.

    Just keep bleaching . . . but you WILL get better results if you'll get enough borax to kick the pH up above 7.6! (And, the borax will be good for your pool, later.)
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-01-2012 at 10:04 PM. Reason: de-sig

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    I'm learning from this! This is the first time I've seen a member have such high CC levels in a long time! I personally prefer to use Liquid Chlorine in 5 gallon carboys because it's the equivalent of 10+ gallons of bleach, all in one container. Of course I don't really worry about my 10 year old liner bleaching out, rather that doesn't leak!
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-01-2012 at 10:05 PM. Reason: de-sig
    Carl

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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    I have an old ammonia test kit and it showed 1ppm in my pool water. I just tested chlorine several hours after adding 2 lbs of old shock I had, several pucks in the skimmer and 4 gal of bleach yielded FC of 14 and surprising CC of 2.
    I double checked it in another area of the pool and got FC 13 and CC 3. Does that sound right? I am new to this type of testing but following the procedure for 10ml.

    Where in the pool is the best to get the water sample?

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    I wouldn't worry about it. There are only two options: you can drain, clean and refill; or you can chlorinate till it's gone. Unless you are asking the question, "Should I drain the pool?", the question, "Exactly how much ammonia is there?" isn't really relevant.

    A variation between FC=13 and FC=14 is certainly within the error range of that test . . . so it may not be an actual difference. But, depending on circulation patterns in your pool, it may not be an error. In that case, the 'best place' to get a sample, depends on which part of the pool you want to measure!

    Are you thinking about draining and refilling? (Keep in mind, this is not really an option with a vinyl pool.) If not, just chlorinate till it's gone.

    Just chl
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-01-2012 at 10:05 PM. Reason: de-sig

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    Mine is a vinyl pool and the liner is about 6 years old. I would hope not to drain now, although we will need a liner in the next few years because ours is wrinkled in the bottom of the shallow end and not looking so great in the deep end from shock lying at the bottom.

    A quick check this morning had a FC of 10.5 but CC was up to 6 again. Does that sound right? Am I going in the right direction?? Would it be cost effective to do the liner now?? Cost of refill is $250 plus for me.

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    New liner installed can go over $1,000 . . . and this is NOT the best time of year to go after one. The pool business has picked up, compared to last year, so the guys that didn't go belly up 2 years ago, are really busy. If you go after a new liner now, you'll be at the bottom of the list, and might not swim till July. Plus, when you pull a liner, there are often OTHER repairs that have to be done.

    If you're OK with all that, go for it. Otherwise, keep chlorinating. But, do raise the pH with borax.
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-01-2012 at 10:06 PM. Reason: de-sig

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    If you can wait until January/February to buy the new liner, the places (at least down here) often offer really good discounts on"last year's models" because the new liner patterns are published around March. I don't know if it's possible to install one in January in your climate, but you might could at least get the contract signed and get on the list for when the weather warms up--and save yourself some money that way. My new (discounted model) liner cost around $3K a couple of years ago, installed.

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Chemical Help

    FC went down and CC went up to 5 FCC and 8cc. I am putting in 3 gal of beach at night and morning. I will check levels later today and will post.

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