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Thread: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    just bought a new drop test kit yesterday. I understand the reason for the drastic change in the chlorine level......I threw 2lbs. of granular in 4 hrs. ago. I don't get the hardness level dropping like that. I also put a box of borax in 4 hrs. ago. Actually almost 5 hrs. now.

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    KurtV is offline Registered+ Widget Weaver KurtV 0
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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    It's not that your total chlorine is so high that makes me wonder but that the combined chlorine is so high. By the way, you're correct that TC = FC + CC.

    Who makes the test kit? What kind of chlorine test does it have (OTO, DPD, FAS-DPD)?

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    KurtV - It's an AquaChem test kit......I know....not the best but all that K-Mart had. I just retested the cl and hardness. The Cl appears to be a bit above 3 but not to 5 and after waiting a few minutes for the sample to develop it really doesn't change. So I guess, in all actuality, the CC is the same as FC??? Is that right?

    Now the hardness testinstructions say to "add 2 drops of solution A....sample with turn violet if hardness is present." My sample does not turn violet. However, it did this morning. Then I'm supposed to ad solution B in drops until the sample color changes to blue. This morning it took 3 drop to change to blue which made the hardness 150ppm (multiply # of drops by 50). This afternoon I had to add 36 drops to get the sample to turn a very pale blue. So that would make my water hardness 1800ppm???? This can't be right!?!?!?

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    KurtV is offline Registered+ Widget Weaver KurtV 0
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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    dog, Sounds like you're using a DPD test for chlorine which is difficult to get good results from with high levels of chlorine (over 5 ppm), which I'm pretty sure you have.

    That's probably also the problem with your calcium test; the high levels of chlorine are bleaching out the hardness indicator.

    I wouldn't worry about the calcium hardness for right now (until your chlorine comes down to sub 5 ppm). Keep monitoring your chlorine levels with what you have or get a pool store that uses FAS-DPD testing to test your water.

    You'll really need think about getting an FAS-DPD chlorine test if you're going to do this yourself. Ben's PS234 and the Taylor K-2006 both fit the bill.

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by KurtV
    dog, Sounds like you're using a DPD test for chlorine which is difficult to get good results from with high levels of chlorine (over 5 ppm), which I'm pretty sure you have.
    Sorry KurtV, you did ask about that. It's an OTO test. I think, just to be on the safe side, I'm gonna take a sample to the pool store tomorrow morning. Thanks so much for all your help. I'm sure I'll be back with plenty more questions.

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogpool
    KurtV - It's an AquaChem test kit......I know....not the best but all that K-Mart had. I just retested the cl and hardness. The Cl appears to be a bit above 3 but not to 5 and after waiting a few minutes for the sample to develop it really doesn't change. So I guess, in all actuality, the CC is the same as FC??? Is that right?

    Now the hardness testinstructions say to "add 2 drops of solution A....sample with turn violet if hardness is present." My sample does not turn violet. However, it did this morning. Then I'm supposed to ad solution B in drops until the sample color changes to blue. This morning it took 3 drop to change to blue which made the hardness 150ppm (multiply # of drops by 50). This afternoon I had to add 36 drops to get the sample to turn a very pale blue. So that would make my water hardness 1800ppm???? This can't be right!?!?!?
    A few notes about the Aquachem test kit.
    First it uses OTO to test for chlorine. OTO is not a reliable indicator of FC. It is really only a test for TC. You need a DPD (turns pink) or an FAS-DPD
    (Titration test and very accurate, even at high chlorine levels and can detect as low as .2 ppm CC)

    Second, there seems to be some issues with the CH test in this kit. It does not produce reliable results under certain conditions. Check out this thread for more details.

    http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1112

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by waterbear; 05-17-2006 at 04:52 PM.
    Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by waterbear
    A few notes about the Aquachem test kit.
    First it uses OTO to test for chlorine. OTO is not a reliable indicator of FC. It is really only a test for TC. You need a DPD (turns pink) or an FAS-DPD
    (Titration test and very accurate, even at high chlorine levels and can detect as low as .2 ppm CC)

    Second, there seems to be some issues with the CH test in this kit. It does not produce reliable results under certain conditions. Check out this thread for more details.

    http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1112

    Hope this helps.
    Went back and read the thread you posted. That's the kit I have and the exact results I've gotten!!! Worked fine the first time and now the first solution does not even change the water sample to violet. I'll have to try the 8-10 drops and see what happens. There is a "disclaimer" of sorts on the instruction sheet. Across the top of the instructions for pH, Alk and CH tests it says "Do not perform following tests if total available chlorine exceeds 3.0 ppm." So, I'm guessing that this test kit is crap when attempting to clean your water and balance it at the same time???

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    I may be wrong, but I 'm wondering if perhaps the chlorine readings are off. Having a CC of 3 is pretty high especially since in her earlier post it was .6. I would recheck those numbers.

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    Tcap is offline ** No working email address ** Tcap 0
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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    Hi,

    You mentioned you have a heater - if this is the case, you do need calcium in your water. Your liner doesn't need it, but your heater does. The range is 200 to 400ppm I believe. I have been keeping mine at about 170 and I'm in line with the Langelier Saturation Index so I'm not increasing to 200 or above. Here's the link: http://www.advancedh2o.com/technical.../langlier.html

    The others on the forum are much more knowlegable about the other numbers so I will leave that to them.

    Hope this helps!
    Tracy

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    Default Re: I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tcap
    Hi,

    You mentioned you have a heater - if this is the case, you do need calcium in your water. Your liner doesn't need it, but your heater does. The range is 200 to 400ppm I believe. I have been keeping mine at about 170 and I'm in line with the Langelier Saturation Index so I'm not increasing to 200 or above. Here's the link: http://www.advancedh2o.com/technical.../langlier.html

    The others on the forum are much more knowlegable about the other numbers so I will leave that to them.

    Hope this helps!
    Tracy
    Not to sound too stupid but......no, doesn't help at all!!! What is the Langelier Saturation Index?????

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