Actually I can't tell that it faded my liner a bit. The pool looks beautiful this morning, nice and blue. Still that little bit of pesky brownish silt that will need to be vacuumed out today.
Actually I can't tell that it faded my liner a bit. The pool looks beautiful this morning, nice and blue. Still that little bit of pesky brownish silt that will need to be vacuumed out today.
Wow. I lost 15 ppm over the day. I guess the algae is still dying. I can hear them crying from my back porch!
I just put 10 more 1.5 gal bottles of bleach into the pool, and I vacuumed it again today. I must say it sure looks beautiful and inviting. It is starting to really sparkle. So, question still is, do I add muriatic acid, to try to bring the pH down?
You don't know what your pH actually is because you can't get an accurate reading when the chlorine is that high.
Ok, just tested FC for the night and it is 45. Even in the moonlight I can see the drain at the deep end. Cool. Will run all tests again first thing in the morning.
Just a suggestion for when you get the current batch killed and your FC is back to normal, you might want to consider adding 50 ppm borate to your water for it's algaestatic action and it is effective at keeping mustard algae at bay since you have had problems with it in the past. It will last you all season if not longer and you only need to worry about raising the borate level when it drops to 30 ppm. It is easy to test with LaMotte Borate test strips. It's easy to add using only borax and muriatic acid. You will need 15.5 boxes of borax (76 oz.) and between 4.25 to 4.5 gallons of muriatic acid. to bring a 20k gal. pool to 50 ppm so it is actually often less expensive in the long run than using polyquat and lots of chlorine to combat outbreaks.
With the pump running broadcast 8 boxes of borax into the pool and then add 2 gallons of acid. Brush the pool to mix everything. (Brushing down the sides of the pool all around is most effective.) Add the rest of the borax and 2 1/4 more gallons of acid and brush again. Let the pool cfor 24 to 48 hours and make final adjustments to your pH.
Since your TA is so high you might want to consider lowering it first since it is going to be easier to do BEFORE the borate addition since the borate acts as a secondary pH buffer but it can be done either way. I would not worry about the TA unless you had problems with keeping your pH in line. You did not make it clear if your pH was always high or just reading high during the high chlorine levels you are keeping now to kill the mustard algae. If your pH was constantly climbing and you had to add a lot of acid to keep it in line it might be easier to just bite the bullet and lower the TA at the start of the season and then add borate.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Very interesting about the borate, Waterbear, thanks. I just ran my numbers again, here is the evening results:
FC 22
CC .5
pH 7.8
TA 180
CH 240
CYA 35
This morning I ran the FC test but did not have time to post before I had to leave for work, but it was 40, which is an improvement over the night before. BTW, my pool temp is 78 and outside temp is now 74. It was well into the 80's today here, bright sunshine. Should I add more CYA?
And yes, I have had problems keeping pH lowered. pH bounce pretty much describes my pool, if it means bouncing UP.
Last edited by Watermom; 04-06-2012 at 09:34 PM. Reason: merge posts
Ok. So for tonight, I'm adding the last two bottles (1.5 gal) bleach that I have, which according to how my pool has reacted in the past should raise my FC level to just over 30. I am also going to add 2 lbs of the Dupont Multifunctional Shock (Sodium dicloro-s-triazinetrione) that I have, just to make sure my FC for the night remains high, and I figure my CYA could be a wee bit higher. Borate treatment will have to wait till next week. Son's future in-laws are coming Sunday (!) to discuss wedding, and they'll be seeing our house for the first time. Bleah. I'm already starting to hate this.
So far I'm seeing you post chlorine results from each night, but none from first thing in the morning so that you can tell how much chlorine you're actually losing to the algae. Some of the chlorine you're losing when testing at night only is being lost to the sun during the daytime, but the way to tell just how much the algae is consuming would be to test at night and again first thing in the morning, and then compare the two.
Janet
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