Light green water

[Huskerdee]

We have an Intex 16'x32'x52" pool. I use a sand filter and cartridge filter because we use a salt water generator. For the winter we left about 3' of water in the pool and balanced water. Then we super chlorinated and added pool magic. We had an unusually warm winter this year, needless to say the pool only froze about 1' which means some algae and other contaminates invaded. Upon opening the pool I added water and super shocked the pool to kill algae and since I like to manually filter metals out of the pool I like to separate them from the water by keeping chlorine levels high so they will filter out, thus I don't fight them all summer. Because this requires frequent back washing and vacuuming to waste I have not messed with my PH and alkalinity yet because I don't want to waste money adding chemicals only to drain them. When I opened the pool the water was moderately green. Then it turned dark brown from metals after shocking. Upon a week of filtering I think I have the metals out. Also, since I kept the chlorine levels at around 12 ppm to effectively kill algae I assume I killed all algae. However, my pool water is still light green to a bright yellow. I tested everything even copper thinking maybe that was causing yellowing. Copper is zero though. My PH is 8.2, alkalinity is 240, chlorine has been steady at 12, hardness is 100, and stabilizer at 40. I know I need to add acid to lower PH and alkalinity but would like to get water back to clear first. This year I am using muratic acid no mor instead of acid because it's so toxic and I cannot breathe it in being pregnant. Do you know the conversion of this versus muratic acid? Also what can I do to get my water clear? I did the overnight algae test and my chlorine level has remained constant for two days. I am lost as to what I need to do. I am tired of wasting money on chemicals but want a nice pool once the weather warms up. Thank you!

[PoolDoc]

We have an Intex 16'x32'x52" pool. Copper is zero though. My PH is 8.2, alkalinity is 240, chlorine has been steady at 12, hardness is 100, and stabilizer at 40.

How are you testing?

(More later . . . but I've got to run.)

[Huskerdee]

I was using test strips, but last time used a test kit.

[PoolDoc]

Ok, I'm not sure how you are coming up with 12ppm FC using test strips. I've never seen any that read higher than 10 ppm . . . and it was impossible for most people to distinguish the 5ppm block from the 10ppm block.

BUT . . . taking your pH of 8.2 at face value . . . you need to lower it. PH levels outside the 7.0 - 8.0 range put your liner at some risk, depending on how far out you go. If you have a test strip that reads 8.2 and ALSO has an 8.6 block . . . then your pH may BE 8.2. But, if you have a test strip that only goes to 8.2 . . . than your pH may be 8.2 or 8.6, or 9.6!

So, lower your pH till it's INSIDE the minimum and maximum range of your test method.

And, order a K2006 test kit. If you are dealing with metals, you can't just 'get by' -- you'll need accurate testing.

Finally (almost!), how are you testing for metals? How do you know metals are in your pool? Do they come from your fill water? Is it well water?

Finally (really!), be careful about using United Chemical products. They have a tendency to put phosphates and/or bromides in everything they make. Your "No Mor Hydrochloric) is 80 - 85% sodium bisulfate (used by every other mfg's PH Minus) PLUS 15 - 20% mystery ingredients. Mystery ingredients from pool chemical companies will get you in trouble. I'd recommend using just plain sodium bisulfate (AKA sodium acid sulfate AKA sodium hydrogen sulfate).

[Huskerdee]

Thank you. I originally tested with strips but then tested with a test kit once I got it yesterday. Yes we have well water and I know we have iron in the water from old iron pipes. We have had a pool for like 5 years and I have fought with iron every time I shocked it. Last year After much research I took other pool owners advice and manually filtered the metals out by heavily oxidizing and taking a week to filter them out. Then I didn't have iron problems the rest f the summer. However, this was the first year we left the pool with water in it for the winter because we had a bigger pool to hard to take down. I think that I realized what is going on. I don't think it's algae because my chlorine holds for a few days. Plus when I reach down and touch the walls there's no slimy feeling. I don't see anything stck on bottom or sides anywhere. I think the bottom, which is blue is stained with yellow from the iron, thus making it appear my water is
Ight green. I'm going to bring my PH and alkalinity down. Once I get the water balanced can I use a small amount of iron out through my skimmer to circulate through the pool? That would help me get the stains off of pump, hoses, and liner. Will that add phosphates or anything unwanted to the water?

[PoolDoc]

Hi Huskerdee --

1. Do bring your pH down, and keep it NEAR, but not BELOW the lowest reading on your kit or tester.

2. Do NOT worry about alkalinity or "balance" at this time (and maybe not, ever!)

3. Do run your pump and filter 24/7, and clean them often.

4. Do NOT use Iron Out (I'm going to merge your other post here).

5. Do see if you can find some HEDP based stain control agent: Jacks Magic Blue, Pink or Purple stuff are ALL HEDP, though I don't know what the concentrations are. I do know the "Pink Stuff" is the most concentrated. (Did a little more checking: it looks like the Pink Stuff is full undiluted 60% HEDP -- so that's 3x as concentrated as the Kem-Tek product. It's available on Amazon, but not with free shipping.)

This product:
Kem Tek Calcium and Metal Eliminator
is available at Amazon for $14 with free shipping if you get 2. It's 20% HEDP, so that's a good price, and it will keep indefinitely. (But store the bottle out of the sun -- the plastic will break if you don't!)

Once you've gotten your pH down, and have added the HEDP, let's see what happens. We can look at other options, once you've gotten that far. By the way, do NOT use the HEDP on the "if a little is good, more is better" basis -- follow the label!

[Huskerdee]

Thank you. I have my PH down to 7.4, do I want to keep going with the acid? I will order the Stuff you told me to and let you know what happens. Again, thank you.

[PoolDoc]

Go to just above whatever the lowest reading on your pH test is.

You have to remember, that if 7.0 is the lowest reading on your kit, a reading of 7.0 does NOT mean that your pH is 7.0. It means that it is 7.0 . . . OR BELOW! It could be 6.8, which wouldn't hurt anything in your case. But it could mean 5.8, which would damage your liner fairly quickly!

[Huskerdee]

The lowest on mine is 6.8 so I will get it to 7.0. I ordered the 2 bottles of that metal calcium stuff. It says it'll be here by the 29th or 31st. So I want to leave the pump running 24/7 until then. I know I need to scrub and vacuum daily also, which I do. Do I want to add any clarifies or flocs? Or just keep filtering? I appreciate your help so much. I have learned a lot from reading posts in the forums and am learning more now

[Watermom]

No clarifiers or flocs. We rarely advise adding those on anybody's pool. Just keep filtering.