We have city water and the TA regularly is 180-190ppm.
We have city water and the TA regularly is 180-190ppm.
Carl
Well water:
PH 6.8
TA over 300
City water:
PH 7.8
TA 100
I'm assuming I should bite the bullet and pay the water bill and fill/add water with city water. What do you think?
Thanks,
Steve
If you have a PYROLOX iron filter (or get one) this will remove the iron and the Sulphur smell. Otherwise I woulldn't put un-filtered florida well water in a pool.
I live in N. Fl and use city water that has gone through my whole house filtration and softenter system. Nicely deals with the chlorimines (I have NO dectectable TC in my water after the filtration system and NO metals or sulfer...just have a high phosphate level as most of North and Central Florida does but since I have never had algae don't worry too much about it.) The untreaded city water had a definite sulfur smell to it and also high calcium hardness and some chloramines present. TA for my fill water is 110 ppm so I don't have to deal with that probler. Used to live in S. FL and the TA was throught the roof by comparison but there was no sulfer. Still had to deal with the chloromines adn the TA was pretty high.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
The well water pH at 6.8 indicates some hydrogen sulfide gas. If you want to use it for adding or refilling without circulation, wait at least 6-8 hours before restarting circulation. As you don't have A SWC, the only problem I see is if there any metal parts in contact with the water. Samendolaro suggests using a PYROLOX iron filter, which I think is a great idea that I might try myself.
BTW could you also give us your CH and CYA values as well?
Pat
Last edited by PatL34; 05-16-2006 at 12:02 PM.
20,000 Gallon IG Diamond Brite pool, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, Hayward Microclear DE3600 filter, Favco solar panels, Poolpilot DIG-220 with SC-48 cell.
+ SWCG OPERATION thread here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1226
+ SWCG Running Costs post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=316
+ Effective Stabilizer addition post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?p=6645
Well I'm now using city water for fill water since the TA of the well water is 300+. Using PoolDocs "HOWTO: Step-by-Step Guide to lowering your alkalinity" I've been able to bring my TA down to 240 from 300 in about 6 days. Is that about right time wise? I've got good areation going since I came up with a 45 degree adapter for my return on the pump and it's breaking the water surface nicely. Don't know how I'd do it without this forum.
Steve
Yes - that is good progress. Keep aerating.Originally Posted by StevenW
Neither do we! We love this forum!Originally Posted by StevenW
TA lowering process has went well. In less than 10 days I've lowered my TA from over 300 to 90. Tested today and TA was 90 and PH 7.4. I've been aerating 24 hours a day and have been dilegent in keeping PH 6.6 -6.8 during the process. Should I stop aerating now?
Hi Steven, welcome to the forum! Yes, it's time to stop aerating, if I remember correctly your liner prefers 80 - 120 so 90 is a safe place and your pH @ 7.4 is also in the mid range (I always like to have a little room for change it makes it easier to catch a potential problem before it becomes a real problem)
Congrats on the great results using Ben's methods, pool stores would have had you carting lots of acid and pH plus to your house and probably wouldn't have given you the excellent water you now have.
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
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