No Power Light on Goldline Chlorine Generator

[mirobbi]

Just noticed that there is no green power light on my control panel. The display works showing temperature and salt concentration, but there is no generation, i.e., no voltage or current to the cell. Removed cover and checked voltage. It's 240 VAC at the terminals. I have the Goldline 066012C-1, Rev C, circuit board. 20 Amp fuse is good. Unit is six years old and the chlorine cell was just replace last season and recently cleaned. Generator has been working fine until today. Do I need a new board?

[PoolDoc]

I've moved your post into the SWCG section, so perhaps you'll get an answer there. But, calling Goldline's customer support is always a good start.

[kelemvor]

That sounds similar to the symptoms mine had when the board had a fried component, but I had the older rev without the fuse. I'd call Hayward (They own goldline) technical support, they accurately diagnosed my problem over the phone.

Customer Service: 1-800-HAYWARD (429-9273)
Technical Support: 908-355-7995

[mas985]

Sounds like this problem:

www.nocellpower.com

[PoolDoc]

That looks like a good site, Mark.

[mas985]

Turns out this is a very common problem with the Goldline units. There are probably a couple posts a month on this on various forums.

[desalvsj]

About two weeks ago, I had the classic No Cell Power msg on my AquaLogic PS-8. I removed the board, found the burned out joint, and resoldered it per the recommendation. Put it back together and all was fine for a week. Now I am getting the Cell Power Error message. I cut the power for 10 minutes and it comes back up, runs fine for 2 days or so, then I get the Cell Power Error back. I have read various posts on the new that range from the system board is bad vs the salt cell is bad or needs to be cleaned. Any thoughts of where to look next is much appreciated.

[mas985]

It sounds like it might thermal related and the connection fails after some time. I would check the solder joint again and make sure that the PC board and relay are still in contact. If the joint is still looks good, then it could also be the K1 relay element that is connected to that solder joint. A few people have replaced it with some success.