Is a 33' round unstable?

[CarlD]

BD's right,

These extra tools to supposedly make your life simpler can make it much harder.
An in-line chlorinator CAN be used with the B-B-B system but the key to B-B-B is regular testing and that won't change. In-lines use Tri-Chlor stabilized tablets and these add stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid, aka, CYA) to your water at 60% of the rate they add chlorine. That's good when you don't have any CYA, but bad when you have enough, and worse when you have MORE than enough. They also add acid, lots of it, so you'll find you'll need to add Borax constantly to raise pH levels. Still, early in the season, an in-line can help bring your CYA level up while maintaining a constant flow of chlorine. In the spring, I usually use the tablets in a floater to achieve the same goal, and watch the pH.

Caveat: Do NOT drive yourself crazy using "Dual Acting" tablets, or ones that say "With Algaecide!". Chlorine IS an algaecide and they are adding copper, which you don't want.

Chlorine reducing systems like Nature2 cost more to use than they save in chlorine. Never trust pool chemicals that don't say what they contain but use cute labels and vague references. Bleach is still the best chlorine and algaecide.

(Note: Many pool stores sell Liquid Chlorine, frequently as "Liquid Shock". If it's 12.5% sodium Hypochlorite, it's nothing more than double-strength bleach--my preferred chlorine. If it's price per unit is less than double the unit price of bleach, it's a better deal than bleach because you use half as much. If it's more expensive than double the price of bleach, bleach is cheaper.)

Carl

[Jacob99]

BD's right,

These extra tools to supposedly make your life simpler can make it much harder.

Carl

Thanks Carl. Looks like you guys know how to save money. I'm already loving this forum!

[Jacob99]

Dis-regard post #9, I was trying to quote the whole thing not just the first line, maybe it's a limitation on here? Anyway, I'll copy/paste instead so here goes....

Installation - does it include sand and block? How about electrical?
Sand-yes, block-not sure, what is block for?

Liner - Up to you, I think the beaded / J-Hook look nicer - safer, I don't know - sorry.
I like beaded, but overlap seems much less likely to ever come off.

Filter - 1.5 HP may be alot for a 21" sand filter - I too like sand. The advice I've seen here is larger filter, smaller pump. Too much pump can push crud right through a filter that's too small. The slower the water moves through the filter the cleaner it will be.
So, should I request a 1 HP pump instead of a 1.5? Is a 21" filter enough, or should I request a bigger filter?

You will need: a ladder ( do you need code - compliant self closing, latching? )
Yes, latching.

Test Kit - Do yourself a big favor and buy the Taylor K2006 test kit (find links here on pool forum so forum gets a little cash to stay afloat).
Thanks, appreciate the recommendation.

Chemicals - you don't need most of this list and it may cause you trouble with water quality. Read all about BBB on this forum and on PoolSoultions for, what we all agree is, a great way to maintain your pool.
So, should I just tell them to keep all of those chemicals and buy my own?

Cartridge Sanitizer - I don't know about prevail, but these "chlorine free" - "reduced chlorine" systems are unneccessary and could cause problems - refer to the BBB method - it works, you'll be happy, really. -
I definitely will, but is this the same thing as a self chlorinator? Even though it's not listed, I remember the woman at the pool store showing me a self chlorinator that is part of the package. If these are one in the same, then what's the alternative? Those floaty pod chlorine things? Sorry I'm a total newbie. Trying to learn everything, but I'm on information overload right now. I haven't looked into the BBB method yet as I haven't gotten the pool yet, but I definitely will be looking into that method.

[CarlD]

Blocks go under each upright so they are not sitting directly on sand.

Properly installed liners shouldn't come off, beaded of overlap.

Is the pump an above ground up-rated or in-ground full-rated? If the former, 1 hp is probably OK. If the latter, 1hp and 250# sand filter should be right, or a 3/4 hp pump with your filter.

Self-latching gates and ladders are pretty much code in most places.

yup, the K-2006 is the one

Self chlorinators are not the same as reduced chlorine systems by any means.

Carl

[Jacob99]

So is a self chlorinator a good thing to have?

[Watermom]

You don't need a self-chlorinator. They use tablets that are a stabilized form of chlorine. If they are used too long, too much stabilizer (CYA) builds up in the pool and if you don't run higher than normal chlorine levels as a result, then you may have algae problems. (Take a look at the Best Guess chlorine chart in my signature below.) It is no big deal to just add a little chlorine each day.

On the other hand, if you travel, you can use the chlorinator while you are away to add some chlorine to the pool.

I don't have one and don't ever plan on having one. But, some people do use them.

[CarlD]

You can use a floater if you need to use tablets. That's what I do. No plumbing and they run $10 or less.

Carl