PH going up again!

[waterbear]

Post a full set of test results and we can better help you. Also, post the make and model of the SWCG and (very important) the test results need to include CYA and TA levels, pump run time, and FC level.

[Mr.Mooks]

Thanks for your help. I am going to check all the information about my pool and SWCG make and models and put in my signature this weekend. As for the levels I do not have a Taylor yet so I am relying on the pool store. I know this is not good though its the best I can do for now. I know the CYA level is low beacuse I did not realize I still had to use it with a SWCG and my CL levels have been dropping and I am going to burn up my plates. Added some liquid CYA yesterday and have a water sample to take in today. When it is done I will post results.

[Mr.Mooks]

Ok. Just got back from the pool store and here are the results.
FC 0.2 ppm, TC 0.3 ppm, CC 0.1 ppm, PH 7.9, Hardness 260 ppm, Alk 167 ppm, CA 10 ppm, Phos 100ppm, Salt 3400ppm.
Pump runtime is 12-14 hrs per day in the daytime off at night.
As I had mentioned I just started to the liquid CYA yesterday afternoon and I only used 1/2 a 1 gallon bottle as I did not want to go to high. So I will add the rest later and also somemore Muratic Acid. Pool is totaly clear even with these numbers. Pool is 36000 liters.

[aylad]

Yes, your CYA is low, and does need to be raised, which you are working on.....and I'm willing to bet that Waterbear's going to tell you to drop the alk to around 80 ppm or so and see if that doesn't help slow the pH rise...

Janet

[Mr.Mooks]

Hello. I have added the Muratic Acid, the last 1/2 of my 1 Gallon liquid CYA and some more salt. Waiting for a few hours of circulation and then I will retest. Also I did this post because I have put all my info about my pool in my signature. Thanks again for everyones help. Carl.

[CarlD]

Yes, I absolutely agree that TA needs to be lower. I've found that if your pH trends up, a lower TA is better. If it trends down, a higher TA is better. If it doesn't move, don't mess with it!

Carl

[waterbear]

Yes, your CYA is low, and does need to be raised, which you are working on.....and I'm willing to bet that Waterbear's going to tell you to drop the alk to around 80 ppm or so and see if that doesn't help slow the pH rise...

Janet

I was going to say 70!

More important, with a CompuPool unit you want the CYA at 100 ppm, particularly if you have one of the non reversing ones. This will minimize the cell on time (and the speed at which the cell scales) while maintaining the FC (keep it at 5 ppm or a bit higher with this CYA level). Minimizing the cell on time will mean less generation of hydrogen gas in the cell which means less aeration of the water which means less outgassing of CO2 which means slower pH rise. (Outgassing of CO2 is the main cause of pH rise in salt pools, assuming no new curing plaster.)

Lowering the TA to 70 ppm will also slow pH rise from outgassing.

[Mr.Mooks]

Thanks Waterbear. My compupool SWCG does switch polarities. Now that I have added the stuff I have I will get the water tested again. A least with waht I have added I am heading in the right direction. I will post the results of my next water test.

[Mr.Mooks]

Ok. Just back from the pool store with latest results. Since I used the liquid CYA the first time I was able to get a reading today. FC-0.7 ppm, TC- 1.0 ppm, CC-0.3, PH-7.4, Alk-176 ppm, CYA-15ppm, Phos-100ppm, Salt 3800. So looks like I am going in the right direction. I still have 1 gallon of Muratic Acid if I need it and I bought 2lb of powder CYA the liquid cost to much to continue. The store is telling me my CC is above acceptable levels and has a bunch of ways to correct. So what I was hoping someone could tell me where to go from here. All your help is great. The pool is still clear though.

[aylad]

I don't trust the pool store's test results much, but I trust their advice even less. A CC of .5 is not uncommon, especially when you have had a bather load. It just means the chlorine in the water is fighting something. Generally we don't even suggest that you shock the pool unless you have a CC of 1 or more. If your water is clear, there's no sign of algae, and you're not losing any chlorine when testing at night and again in the morning, then your water is fine and you don't need to shock the pool. You do, however, need to get your chlorine up. Even with a SWCG, you should still maintain your chlorine at least 5% of your CYA. I realize with a CYA of 15 that means 0.75, but I don't believe the CYA result either--most testers can't discern a level less than 30 ppm. I would go ahead and add some CYA--with your SWCG you want to target 100 ppm, according to Waterbear. Use the granular, put it in a sock in front of a return, or directly into the skimmer SLOWLY so you don't clog the pipes, and then give it 4-5 days to dissolve before testing for it again.

You're headed in the right direction--you just need to quit listening to the pool store!

Janet

You really, really need to get a good test kit so you can do your own testing. It will make keeping your pool SO much easier, by allowing you to make minor corrections as they are needed, and not waiting until there's a big problem to fix.