Ahhhh, this site is so informative! What you're saying makes sense -- very good sense. I'm liking more and more the idea of keeping the pool at 4 PPM FC / 80 PPM CYA and do periodic testing for CC, shocking whenever it's necessary. If that happens just once a month, I'll likely opt to buy liquid chlorine and shock that way rather than use the Boost button on the salt cell. Not too much trouble, and the quickness of the liquid chlorine may be more effective than the 24-hour boost cycle. Avoiding weekly shocks saves $$$ and, with the right water chemistry, doesn't create a greater risk of algae, either. Very nice.
Our pool is getting a LOT of use this summer because 1) it's new, 2) there's 6 of us living in my home, 3) all 6 like to invite their friends over to swim. So I won't be surprised if I have to shock the pool somewhat frequently, but perhaps I don't need to do it weekly afterall, Pinch-a-Penny's advice be danged.
For the next few days, I'll leave the SWCG set at 50% for the pump's regular 8-hour cycle (I run the pump after the 8 hours if people are in the pool, but I don't switch on the SWCG). I want to see how quickly the FC is depleted with this setting. Once it reaches 4 PPM, I'll bump up the SWCG to 60% or 70% to try and get a net-zero change to the FC. I do have a variable-speed pump, so I certainly could run the pump longer and a lower speed if I need to.
It's been fun trying to figure out all this stuff. This forum has been a terrific source of knowledge, real-world experience and expert advice. I already know more about pool chemistry that several pool-owning friends who have owned pools for years and years!
South Florida - 16,000g Diamond Brite pool, 700g spa & waterfall, Jandy 1400 AquaPure SWCG, Jandy variable-speed 1.5H pump, Jandy 60 DE filter, Jandy heat pump - using Taylor K-2006 kit
I think you're right! I certainly trust my own shaky judgment more now than the guy over at The Pool Store that uses a test strip to test my water. He's the fellow that sold me a $25 bottle of phosophates remover, causing my sparkly pool to turn cloudy, then gumming up my nearly-clean DE filter to the point I had to backwash it. I won't add that stuff in again! Wish I had read more deeply in this forum before I blindly followed his advice.
I don't over-estimate my knowledge -- I'm a pool chemistry neophyte still -- but I've got a reasonable handle on pool chemistry now, and a majority of what I've learned has come from this website and the little pamphlet that Taylor helpfully includes inside their K-2006 kit. I've hit a few other pool-related websites for information, too, but this site and the people in it have been by far the most helpful. The fact you have such active and knowledgeable moderators makes a huge difference. What I'm most pleased with is I've got a strategy for how I want to handle my pool maintenance duties that I've quickly developed, without having to go through a terribly long process of trial-and-error. I'm feeling pretty confident about keeping my pool clear and clean (and if I DO run into trouble, I'll come back to this forum to find some answers).
South Florida - 16,000g Diamond Brite pool, 700g spa & waterfall, Jandy 1400 AquaPure SWCG, Jandy variable-speed 1.5H pump, Jandy 60 DE filter, Jandy heat pump - using Taylor K-2006 kit
You're starting to believe, but I don't think you're quite there yet. When Waterbear says you don't have to shock, you really don't have to shock; not even monthly. If you keep the FC and other chemicals where they should be, you shouldn't ever have to shock, unless something else happens.
I live in Houston with a SWCG and only throw in some bleach after a big pool party with my kid's friends, or when a hurricane brings through a bunch of dirty rain. If I got lazy and didn't check my pool for a while and saw the chlorine got low, I might through in a little bleach to bring it back up. I very rarely ever get any CC.
So if you keep a nice balanced pool, you won't have to "periodically" shock your pool.
Robert
~~
22K gallon, IG, gunite, Sunstone Pearl White Pearl plaster, Aqualogic SWCG, Hayward Tristar pool pump, Pentair Whisperflo waterfall pump, Pentair Clean & Clear 320 cartridge filter, Sta-Rite heater.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
I just posted this in another thread about an hour ago. Please read.
Absolutely, You need Stabilizer. Here is a bit of a testimonial. Being a real card carrying "Big Tall Dumb Guy" with a SWCG, my scatter brain told me I didn't really care too much about the CYA (stabilizer) levels. So when I replaced my pool liner last year and installed a SWCG, I added some CYA but not enough. My Chlorine levels were good with my CYA at 25 - 30 PPM, AND ALL SEEMED GOOD.
After all, my chlorine is FREE, Right? Wrong! Chlorine isn't "free" when you have to run your pump twice as long to keep the Chlorine levels up (NOT TO MENTION BURNING OUT YOUR CELL).
I had to run my system for 7 hours a day to keep from running out of chlorine at sunset. I decided to stop being so stupid and I raised my CYA to 45 ppm and I am now running my pump for 4 hours a day. The $10.00 bottle of stabilizer will save me hundreds (Plural) yes hundreds of dollars in electricity.
You can learn a lot from a BIGTALLDUMBGUY!
If you can afford a swimming pool and computer, you can probably afford to help keep the PoolForum alive. Please be a responsible member and subscribe today. You'll probably save more than the membership fee on your first trip to the pool store. BTG
"You're starting to believe, but I don't think you're quite there yet."
You're right. The proof (for me) will be how this forum's methodology holds up in *my* pool, right? But everyone here has convinced me that I don't have to blindly and ignorantly follow a local pool store's advice on how to care for my pool (for which I heartily thank you!). Moreover, you've raised an interesting, viable alternative that I'm willing to try -- keep up my CYA level, keep up my FC level, watch over my CC level, and shock only when the pool needs to be shocked. Doesn't have to be once a week. Doesn't have to be once a month, even. Just when I need it.
So, I'll give it a go. My "insurance policy" against algae, though, is that I'll still add a maintenance dose of polyquat each week. The relatively low cost of doing that gives me peace-of-mind. What I need to work out now is how much time the SWCG needs to operate to keep up the FC level. Over this week and next, I should be able to nail that answer down.
South Florida - 16,000g Diamond Brite pool, 700g spa & waterfall, Jandy 1400 AquaPure SWCG, Jandy variable-speed 1.5H pump, Jandy 60 DE filter, Jandy heat pump - using Taylor K-2006 kit
Just an FYI (and somebody may have already told you this earlier in this thread -- I didn't take the time to re-read it) -------- polyquat will cause your FC to plummet. Then you'll have to add more chlorine to pull it back up.
So, Cya of 30 and FC-1.5, running a SWCG/DE Filter 12hours a day on 50% isn't necessary?
I should raise CYA to 60 and FC of 3 with less time on the cell?
I must say this is a great forum...
38000 Vinyl IGP filled w/ well H20, SWCG-CI40, DE Filter, Elec. heat Pump
24x40 rectangle 36K gal IG pool; SWCG; Pentair DEQuad DE filter; Hayward pump; 12hrs; ColorQ Pro by Lamotte; well; summer: ; winter: ; iPhone; PF:3.3
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