Since you have new plaster you will have a big acid demand from the curing plaster and will go through a lot of acid for about the next year. Nature of the beast but it is very important to keep tabs on pH, TA, and CH during this time.

As I said before, the lower you put the pH the faster it will rise (and the faster you will lower TA) so you might want to rethink dropping the pH to 7.2 unless it is part of the plaster curing instructions you got from the contractor. However, SGM's Diamond Brite warranty does state that pH should be kept between 7.4-7.6. Also TA lower limit is 80 ppm on the warranty so you might want to keep it there instead of 70 ppm even though 70 ppm will give a bit better pH stability in a salt pool.
Not sure why you added baking soda to raise the TA when it was at 80 ppm. Like I said before the higher the TA the faster pH will rise and you want to slow down pH rise in your pool, particularly with curing plaster! (bringing your CYA up to 80 ppm wil also hellp as I explained).

You are lucky that your CH is not too high since that is a common problem in pools with new plaster.

Also, with a CYA of 60 ppm 12.5 ppm FC is not high enough for shocking. If you have CC of .5 greater than .5 ppm then add bleach to bring the FC up to 20 ppm. Your boost function would need closer to 48 hours to do this from what you have posted. I would not recommend that.

Also, 1.5 ppm FC is way too low and that is why you are showing CC! Your FC should be 5% of your CYA for a salt pool so for a CYa of 60 ppm your FC should be AT LEAST 3 PPM AT ALL TIMES! If you do that you will find that you do not have CC not will you be prone to algae outbreaks.