Spider Gasket - First Obsticle

[Sprint54]

If you have been following any of my previous posts you will know that I have my plate full with pool maintenance and repair items. All was going well until I went to replace the Spider Gasket on the Multi-Port Valve. The Spider Gasket on the side mount multi-port valve was damaged and needed replacement. I have a 'Swimquip' 2" valve, model 14971-12. I have noticed with all the on-line literature and parts houses that Sta-Rite purchased Swimquip, or at least the multi-port valves. I have ordered the spider gasket twice and each time receive the same part, which is too small. The OD of the old spider gasket and slot it fits into is 7 1/4 inches. The ID of the center hole in the old spider gasket is 5/8". What I receive when I order a Spider Gasket for a Sta-Rite 2" multi-port valve is too small. The OD of the new gasket is 6 3/4 inches, but correct on the ID of the center hole. Has anyone encountered similar problems with the Simquip valve, now handled by Sta-Rite? Where can I find the correct Spider Gasket. I also understand the new Spider Gasket needs to be glued into the slot. I have literature that recommends using Loctite 401, 403 or 416. Any thoughts on other possibilities in case I can't find the Loctite product? Thanks in advance for yor help.

Kind Regards,

Scott

[South_Texas_Sun]

Scott, you can buy gasket paper at any automotive shop and cut it out yourself. If you have the old gasket, just trace through holes and if not, just coat the surface with water soluble paint (ink...anything) and let the surface "paint" your pattern for you.

About the sealer, I always use "gaskacinch". It's a little harder to find, but works beautifully with a really thin layer (looks like phlegm.......blechh) and if you coat both surfaces, allow it to cure, then place them together, you'll have no problem putting the pump together without the gasket shifting.

Hth!

[Sprint54]

Thanks South Texas Sun, but the work 'gasket' is a little mis-leading. Granted, the industry calls it a 'Spider Gasket' but it's more of an o-ring in a spider web formation with a thick rubber base. I'm afraid that automotive gasket material is not going to satisfy the pool gods. This is a very specialized part. Thanks for your suggestion. For a hard to buy traditional 'gasket' your suggestion would have been the ticket.

Scott.

[Poconos]

Scott,
Looks like almost the same as the gaskets used in the Hayward valves. Somewhat thick thing, special shape, relatively soft, and glued into channels in the valve body that hold it in place. First suggestion would be to see if another manufacturer uses the same gasket. Take the assembly to a pool store and see if something will fit. On the glue, many on this forum say glue doesn't hold. Hayward recommends super glue. Tried that once and it worked for a bit. Last year I used silicone seal because a couple webs let loose. Cleaned the channels well, wiped with alcohol, then filled channels with silicone seal, placed gasket, reassembled valve, set the handle to put pressure on it, moved the handle a few times in the first few hours to make sure all webs were under pressure, let it cure, opened valve and cut any excess squished seal away. We will see. Oh, I also cut a circular piece of plastic sheeting to place between the gasket and the top valve piece so the seal wouldn't stick the two together. I coated the plastic sheet with wax on the silicone side as a mold release agent. Silicone seal won't stick. If all else fails and you can't find a gasket you may be able to make one...from guess what...silicone seal. Got some ideas if it comes to that. Stuff is great. Years ago I used clear seal to make an engine mount for my 81 Harley. Held up a lot better than the original.
Al

[waste]

Hey all, just a quick point on 'gluing' the 5 0r 6 spoke wagon wheel' (what I've always heard them refered to as). Don't glue it in - it just makes getting it back out later harder. If the 'channels' it sits in are in good shape, the glue doesn't matter. If the channels have broken, then glue may work for a while but, you'll have to replace the multiport eventually anyway (I think they retail at about $120 , though you can probably get one much cheeper).
The part that does the job is the 1/16" raised 'bump' (think of looking at a cross section and seeing the Jefferson memorial [used to be on the back of nickels].) Be sure to use a silicone or teflon based lubricant (petrolium based will only eat, not treat the 'rubber') and apply it liberally. I've got about 5 things I'm working on now so, if you have any ?s - just ask (I try to get to my subscribed threads every day)
Happy pool season all - Waste

[Poconos]

Waste,
Don't glue it in? You have to be kidding. With the pressure on this thing from the top part of the valve you will get some 'sticking' and it will lift right out of the channel first time you go to change positions. If that doesn't happen then the first time you go to change positions with any flow whatsoever it will get displaced and ruined. The flow could be simply the slight flow that is the result of opening the waste port that is usually open to air. As for getting a glued one back out....scrape it with a small flat blade screwdriver or something similar that fits in the channel.
Al

[waste]

Al, I'll stand by what I've said. I have never glued in a gasket nor o-ring: number of problems caused by no glue = 0. The channels are deep enough (at least on Hayward products) to prevent the movement you fear. As I see it, the problems result from dry-rot or broken channels, and lubing the gasket prevents the dry-rot. It seems to me that most trouble arises from the gasket sitting dry over the winter (water is a wonderful lubricent), if the multiport handle isn't in an 'in-between' a/k/a/ winterize position, the bonding you're talking about can occur and shred the gasket with the first change of position.
There is no reason to make this one of the 'great all-time debates' - if anyone is uncomfortable with what I've suggested, by all means secure the gasket, though I'd suggest using silicone caulk (sparingly applied) over glue - and, of course, lube it well.

[tonyl]

I'm with Waste, at least with a Hayward.

I just changed my spider gasket last week. It was 9 years old and I'm sure it hadn't been glued in. On the new gasket I just thoroughly worked it down into the channel. It was a nice fit on my Hayward filter, I don't know about other models.

[South_Texas_Sun]

One more swipe at this, then I'll deny ever mentioning it.

I'm a former auto tech and shop owner and I'm against "jury-rigging" and "backyard mechanics."

However, there are times that you either "rig" or "toss" a part and this may be one of those times. No harm trying if you're not an airline mechanic.

If you have to replace a complex o-ring gasket and don't have a replacement, here's a workaround..........get the closest o-ring you can find and if it's not TOO short, use GASKACINCH brandname to hold the gasket into place while you put it together.

If the o-ring is just too small, buy 2 of them, then CAREFULLY cut the rubber at an EXACT square angle, put in the extra piece needed, then CRAZY GLUE the pieces together. Then use GASKACINCH to "glue" the gasket into the pump gasket groove and use extra GASKACINCH at the "joined" areas of the o-ring.

Now, I've used this method a number of times and it's even worked (for a while) on a small dirt bike motor.

The reason that I'm suggesting it here, is that there's no heat to speak of and using a bead of silicon to glue it, just won't work imo.

The reason I'm suggesting gaskacinch and not silicon sealer is that gaskacinch actually acts like rubber cement. You coat both sides, let them dry for a bit, then put it together and it's "glued" in place, making assembly dead easy.

Hope that helps

Used to have a sign on my desk: "Nobody has time to do it right, but Everybody has time to do it over!

[Poconos]

GASKACINCH sounds like neat stuff to keep around. I'll look into it.
Thanks.
Al