Your understanding is correct.
I meant using a higher CYA level to slow chlorine loss; however I do realize I need to monitor the pool more until I get a better feel for the rate of chlorine usage and then go from there.
My understanding from reading on this forum is the higher the CYA level the slower the chlorine loss. On the flip side, with higher CYA levels you have to maintain a higher baseline of chlorine. Correct?
25,000 gallon Concrete/Plaster Pool with a D.E. Filter. K-2006 Test kit. Pool Forum Rocks!
Your understanding is correct.
If the free chlorine level is raised above the recommended ideal max, say to 8ppm in a pool with 30-50 ppm CYA where the recommended max is 6ppm, what happens? I imagine the excess chlorine just burns off quicker, but wanted clarification. The chlorine levels seem to drop fairly quickly during the day right now. That being said the temps (S.E. PA) are 100 degrees and the pool is in full sun for most of the day.
Last edited by stslimited84; 07-22-2011 at 05:38 PM.
25,000 gallon Concrete/Plaster Pool with a D.E. Filter. K-2006 Test kit. Pool Forum Rocks!
When you are not having to treat a problem, you want to raise it to the normal max, and let it cycle down toward the normal minimum. Given losses to swimmers and sunlight, it's pretty much impossible to maintain a 'constant' chlorine level in the pool. What you want to avoid is having it go below the minimum. It's better to be too high than too low, because pools are not especially forgiving, and a single algae episode can consume 30 days worth of chlorine!
PoolDoc / Ben
wow, that certainly is motivation enough to keep the levels in the recommended range. If I find the levels aren't holding throughout the day, is that when the CYA should be raised? For example, the past two days I've had to add bleach twice each day to maintain the proper level.
25,000 gallon Concrete/Plaster Pool with a D.E. Filter. K-2006 Test kit. Pool Forum Rocks!
Yes. If you can't keep enough chlorine in the pool throughout a day to keep from dipping below the minimum for your CYA level, then you should probably bump the CYA up a little. BTW --- in a concrete pool, it doesn't really hurt anything if your chlorine is a little higher but in a vinyl pool, it can bleach out some liners.
Had an aggrevating problem develop today. Some piping from the outlet of the pentair multiport (50181212) cracked and now there is a steady leak. While shutting down the filter to remove the piping I omitted closing the multiport and some of the D.E. went out into the pool through the skimmer, drains and return piping. I emailed pictures to poolforum AT gmail DOT com of the broken piping if a moderator could add them that would be great.
1) I realize I need to vacuum the D.E. from the pool, but will this mess up my water chemistry or is it okay in there for a day or two until I can get the proper vacuum head and tubing?
2) Can I replace that specific piece of piping including the cracked nut, or does the entire multiport have to be replaced? (pool service guy said the whole multiport has to be replaced)
3) How much hose do you think I should purchase for the vacuum?
4) Anything else I'm missing or need to do?
25,000 gallon Concrete/Plaster Pool with a D.E. Filter. K-2006 Test kit. Pool Forum Rocks!
I ordered 40' of vacuum hose and this vacuum head - (LINK REMOVED BY MODERATOR so your post could be modded in quicker)
I'm currently still trying to find out if I can get just those parts for the multiport, and if I can, how quickly I can get them b/c the leak needs to be fixed asap. The multiport for the D.E. filter I have is priced between 125 and 150ish online.
But back to the main question, is the D.E. that went back into the pool going to cause problems with my chlorine and other parameters or is it ok to swim in the pool?
25,000 gallon Concrete/Plaster Pool with a D.E. Filter. K-2006 Test kit. Pool Forum Rocks!
Go swim. The DE will not hurt anything. Al (Poconos) is going to pop into your thread to help you address the equipment questions. Good luck.
If the multiport valve body itself is not cracked then it doesn't need to be replaced. If the valve body is trashed then you have nothing to lose by trying to fix it. If the body is cracked at the threads I'd try JB Weld. Home depot, Lowes etc. I'd get a new PVC male fitting and smear it with the JB and thread it in and let it set. If the body is cracked beyond the threads then try the JB from the inside. the stuff is tough. As I said....nothing to lose. We're trying to see if we can see the pics you sent. I'm not sure how to do that yet. Maybe Ben is the only one who has access.
Al
Al
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