Suggestions for lots of leaves

[waldreps]

Thanks for the reply, Anna. I managed to get the pump to run. Turns out that my valve to the skimmer doesn't close airtight so that is what was causing the pump to lose prime. All of the leaves from the cover ended up in the shallow end. I drained the pool so that the deep end is the only end with water in it. Then I got my snow shovel and garden cart and got the leaves and gunk out. I've never seen so much yucky stuff in a pool. It was very disgusting. I used my presser washer to clean everything I could get to and am now filling the pool back up again. Hopefully with some scrubbing and lots of bleach, it'll be ready before too long.

[AnnaK]

You've been very busy this weekend!

Do you have a drop-based test kit yet? I would test the fill water for base line information on TA and CA. Depending on where you live you might even be able to get a chlorine reading. Stock up on bleach or, better yet, liquid chlorine if you can find it, stabilizer (CYA), washing soda or borax, and baking soda.

You're right: lots of brushing and bleach with the pump running 24/7 until the water is clean and balanced.

[CarlD]

Every gallon of 6% bleach will add about 2ppm of chlorine to your pool.
Every gallon of 12.5% Liquid Chlorine will add about 4ppm of chlorine to your pool.

Bleach and Liquid Chlorine are the same thing, only LC, when it's 12.5% strength, is twice as concentrated as bleach. It's what I use because, in my area, it's actually cheaper than bleach and the containers are reusable, but in other areas, bleach is cheaper.

You should add 5 gallons of bleach to your pool as it's filling and keep the chlorine level at at least 10ppm. Meanwhile, you'll need to watch your pH level (it should be between 7.2 and 7.8). You raise pH with 20 Mule Team Borax (you can use Washing Soda, but this raises "Total Alkalinity", good if you need to raise it, bad if you are already at the target level), and lower it with either Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid. You will also need to get some CYA (also called stabilizer) into your water. It acts to prevent rapid UV breakdown of chlorine. Start by hanging 2 lbs in an old sock or stocking near the return and plan on it taking 48 hours to a week to dissolve.

You need to get a proper test kit. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 and K-2006C. You can buy them by finding Watermom's or PoolDoc's posts and clicking on the link to test kits in their signature. Barring that, Leslies on-line sells their Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit, which is the K-2006 re-branded and a bit pricey. For the $50 to $70 it costs, it will pay you back 1000x over the years.

Carl

[waldreps]

Thanks for the replies. I have one of Ben's kits from a few years ago. I used the BBB method when I was regularly using the pool. I need to get some replacement materials for my kit though. I found a sale on 12.5% liquid chlorine....$9.99 for a 4 gallon case. I got some and will get some more before the sale ends. I'm gonna get that water clean soon, hopefully. Thanks again.

[Watermom]

Glad to see you back on the forum!

[waldreps]

The kit that I have from a few years ago is the PS233 from Ben. I still have plenty of the solutions and test reagents. Which ones should still be good and which ones do I need to replace? Thanks.

[Watermom]

If it has been stored in a cool dry place, then many of them are probably fine. Probably the first one to go would be the DPD powder. It probably isn't any good any longer. If it is old and gray and clumpy, I'd toss it out and buy some new. Maybe take a water sample to a reputable pool store and have them test your water and then you test, too and compare and see if you are close to what readings they get. Your test and their test need to be within a short amount of time of each other to make the comparison.