Ok thanks, appreciate the correction .... found this in the mean time. There is a list of tests by kit with specific videos.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...KeyWord=FASDPD
Ok thanks, appreciate the correction .... found this in the mean time. There is a list of tests by kit with specific videos.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...KeyWord=FASDPD
You know, I've been using the FAS-DPD test for ten years and I have RARELY had to add more than one scoop of FAS-DPD powder. The key is, if it's good and pink, you have enough. Adding more simply wastes re-agent.
There's a much simpler way to get your FC level. I add one drop and say to myself "Point 5". The next drop I say to myself "1", then "1 point 5" then "2" then "2 point 5" etc, until the water turns clear. I put the test cell on something white, usually the inside cover of my old PS233 kit box to ensure there's no pink left.
The, after I add the R-0003, I repeat the process. "point 5", etc. (I think I once got to "1 point 5", a long time ago).
TC = FC + CC.
Carl
Carl
Thank you everyone for the replies! Truly the best website on the 'net!!
I have run my numbers and have my results based on the instructions on the cover, yep the ones I missed originally.
fc - 2.4
cc - 0.2
ph - 7.6
alk - 110
cya - and here is my problem it is below 30 but I don't really know how much so I am at a loss.
To make it a little more complicated my husband bought a supply of chemicals from the pool store when he bought the pool. I want to get rid of them and of course they were expensive so he wants to use them before we convert to the BBB method. The chemicals that he bought are all Clearview, I have only a little stabilizer, I mean water conditioner, left though. The chlorine tabs he bought (50 pounds worth) are Trichloro-S Triazinetrione 99% with available chlorine 90%. Apparently they have some stabilizer in them.
So, wondering where I go from here? Not knowing my exact cya makes it hard to know how much stabilizer to put in. Any and all responses appreciated!!
27 ft x 52 in AGP
Hayward Power flo LS 1.5 hp - Hayward model s180t sand filter
27' round 17.2K gal AG pool; hand fed; Hayward model s180t sand filter sand filter; Hayward Power flo LS 1.5 hp pump; 24/7hrs; Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006; orig. truck but use well to resupply; summer: ; winter: ; ; PF:7
2 oz BY WEIGHT, NOT VOLUME of stabilizer will raise the CYA by 15 ppm in 1000 gallons so multiply 2 oz by the number of 1000 gallons that are in your pool to get a 15 ppm rise in CYA. Even if you start at 30 ppm then you will only go to 45 ppm and that is still well withing range (and probably better than keeping it at 30 ppm for technical reasons). Wait a week, retest and if too low add the same amount again. I would shoot for between 40-50 ppm for starters. In your roughtly 17000 gallon pool you would add 2 lbs for just under a 15 ppm rise in CYA. Not exact but close enough for government work!
(I know your pool is 27'x52 inches which works out to 18.5K gallons BUT your pool is not filled with water to the very top so I am only calculating the water height at 48" or 4 feet which comes to just a bit over 17000 gallons and is going to be much closer to the actual amount of water in the pool so you should find that every 2 lbs of CYA will raise you pool by 15 ppm or pretty close to it!)
Last edited by waterbear; 06-30-2011 at 07:18 PM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Thank You so much Waterbear!
27 ft x 52 in AGP
Hayward Power flo LS 1.5 hp - Hayward model s180t sand filter
27' round 17.2K gal AG pool; hand fed; Hayward model s180t sand filter sand filter; Hayward Power flo LS 1.5 hp pump; 24/7hrs; Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006; orig. truck but use well to resupply; summer: ; winter: ; ; PF:7
Here are the charts I use to calculate dosing. Print them out and laminate them so you always have them. All you need is the table and a calculator.
http://www.poolhelp.com/SimplifiedDosageFormulas.pdf
http://www.poolhelp.com/SimplifiedFormulaNumbers.pdf
http://www.poolhelp.com/ChemicallyDe...oolVolumes.pdf
The first is set up with the formula on the chart for the most common chemicals you might use:
(Pool Volume / formula number from chart) X ppm change desired = amount of chemical to add in either pounds or quarts
(Just in case your math is "rusty" do the division in parenthesis first then do the multiplication)
The second is an expanded chart of formula numbers for more pool chemicals that you plug into the formula above
The third is a method of chemically calculating the volume of a pool. You really do not need this one since circular pools are pretty easy to calculate accurately (diameter X water height x 5.9 = volume of circular pool in gallons). It is more useful with irregular shaped in ground pools.
A lot of people use The Pool Calculator
http://www.poolcalculator.com/
but it give too much info all at once, IMHO. I prefer to just concentrate on what chemical I am currently adjusting. Either method works.
Last edited by waterbear; 07-01-2011 at 12:31 PM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Meanwhile, your chlorine for that level CYA should be adequate, but you need to test it, I'd say, at least twice a day until you have sufficient stabilizer to keep the UV from devouring your chlorine.
BTW, your chemicals will last longer if you test 10ml of water rather than 25ml. Each drop of the test will then measure .5 rather than .2 and you'll use less. You don't need any greater accuracy than that.
Carl
Carl
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