I don't know a lot about the Mineral Springs unit, but I believe that of the "minerals" they add is copper, which is commonly used as an algaecide, but is also the culprit when you have green-stained pools, hair, and fingernails. That's why we don't recommend copper in any form around here, because it adds a whole other dimension to caring for your water chemistry, as it can't be removed once it's put in--except by staining something. It does not allow for equally sanitary water with less chlorine, as some people believe it does.

The other three mods sometimes add DE to their sand filters and say that they very much like the quality of the water. I personally don't, because I use zeo in my sand filter, and my understanding is that you can't use DE with it. Don't need to, anyway.

If you can drop your TA down to 80 or so, and only lower your pH to 7.6 instead of lower when adjusting pH only, then you might find that your pH doesn't rise so quickly. I'm not a SWCG person, but in studying the threads and responses from those that are, the consensus seems to be that you need to lower the TA to help stop pH from rising. If you want the chemical explanation, you can use the google link in my sig to search for chem geek or waterbear's posts on the subject...the "why" is above my head, but I know the "it works" is there.

You do need to test for your CYA levels--if the levels are too low, you can really shorten your cell life on your SWCG, and it won't work as efficiently--AND you run the risk of green water. WalMart sells a 6-way drop kit for about $20 that has a CYA test in it, but you could also have it tested at the pool store--just avoid all the junk they want to sell you, unless you need to raise your CYA (and even then, I get mine at WalMart).

Welcome to the forum, if you have other questions, ask away--somebody here will be able to help!!

Janet