first post, AGP info and basic questions

[Watermom]

We typically recommend 40-50 for CYA levels but usually there is a requirement for most SWCG that is stated in the manual. I'm not sure about the Intex SWCG though.

If your pH is that high, you do need to use some acid to lower it. Muriatic or dry acid will both achieve the same purpose. But, I have to tell you that test strips are notoriously inaccurate. If at all possible until you get your kit, can you take a water sample to a reputable pool store and ask them to test it for you?

I'll let someone else advise you in regard to the copper in your system. I really have no knowledge about those Intex SWCG setups.

[matt_e]

I had to drain and refill, the ground settled creating a very lopsided pool (scary).

Filled last night, only thing added is 120 LBS salt to bring me to ~3000 PPM (for the SWG) and 92oz of bleach to shock.

Bleach was added @6am, water was tested @10am, pool has a solar cover on it.

Numbers from the Taylor kit
FC=10
CC=0
PH=7.8
TA=160
CH=180
CYA=0

I have Borax on hand that I had intended to add as a PH buffer and algae control, based on my numbers is this a good or bad idea?

I also have Muriatic acid to offset the PH rise.

Will also be adding CYA, Thinking I will target 50 PPM, this pool is going to experience a fair amount of splash and carry out.

Thanks for any feedback.

[Watermom]

Until you get some CYA in there and are getting a reading, you'll have to add bleach a couple times per day.

Your TA is a little high. See the info at the following link for how to lower it.

Guide to Lowering Alk

[CarlD]

For reasons I don't want to get into, HTH has gone from cheap alternatives to the more expensive companies (with the same ingredients) to mixing "concoctions" that are supposed to be "convenient" but can cause all kinds of problems--like "Double-acting" Tri-chlor tablets. Sounds good? But the double action is provided by copper, which, while good at killing algae, causes more problems than it fixes. They also lowered the content of the Cal-Hypo from 68% to 48% at WalMart's request. 48% dumps a lot more "inert" junk in your pool than 68% and you need a lot more to get the same chlorine level.

So we suggest you stay away from HTH chemicals generally. "Cocktails" of chemicals in one container are, pretty much always a bad idea.

You can completely take care of almost (but not all) any pool with the B-B-B basics: Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda, Muriatic Acid, and Cyanuric Acid (CYA/Stablilizer). For SWCG pools, you need to add...Salt. And for hard-sided pools you have to add calcium, or cal-hypo.

Carl