SWCG versus Ozone/Chlorine system

[keschete]

I went to my first meeting last night with a pool dealer. He sells fiberglass, liner and gunite pools and he also does Salt water, chlorine and chlorine/ozone systems.

We discussed all of the options, I want a small pool (10x20) with a small inground spa.

He recommended a gunite pool with a chlorine/ozone system. He told me that fiberglass fades too much in Louisiana. He said with the new gunite products that would be better and he said he was trying to get out of salt water because of the rust issues with pool components.

So he gave me a price on an Ozone/chlorine system, sand filter, gas heater, and the magnetic pumps.

I just want to see if anyone has any comments. I am waiting until after hurricane season to purchase, so I have time to research. I just don't want to invest a lot of money for a pool that I am not happy with.

I have managed aquariums before, so I understand the concepts behind the magnetic pumps, saltwater and ozone systems.....I just can not seem to translate that into the best pool for my needs.

Please give any and all opinions, references and I thank you all in advance!!!!!

[PoolDoc]

+ Regarding chlorine / ozone: ozone destroys chlorine; chlorine destroys ozone; nuff said?
(But in case it's not enough: the successful European ozone systems for commercial indoor pools are very $$$ and supervisor intensive. The require a dechlorination stage / ozonation stage / filtration / deozonation stage / rechlorination. If you want to do that . . . it works well for indoor pools. Just be sure to budget for an operator salary. US UV based ozone systems are -- in my opinion -- a triumph of marketing over reason.)

+ Salt only rusts components that rust. (Duh!) If you use a salt system you have to use compatible components. Most -- like plastic pumps, stainless ladders and so on are standard. You must also use heaters with salt resistant exchangers. These are not readily available.

+ Salt can also cause some stone and concrete deterioration . . . if it concentrates. It does so in Arizona; it doesn't do so where it rains regularly.

+ Never liked fiberglass pools, but some have worked well. Liner pools are never as 'cool' as gunite, but good liner pools are lower maintenance than gunite.

+ What is a magnetic pump? (All electric motors are magnetic, but I assume you are referring to something different.)

[keschete]

Ben,

The magnetic motor (at least how it was decribed to me) works like an aquarium powerhead. I think it is the Pentair Intelliflo vf high performance pump.

So, what do you like / recommend as far as chlorine vs saltwater systems? I really want a heated pool. The pool will include a small spillover spa. So I need to get something that is compatible with a gas powered heater.

Thanks for you input. Kaya

[PoolDoc]

Sorry, can't do this till Wednesday of next week . . . maybe Waste or Waterbear can help.

[keschete]

I am not in any rush. I don't plan on ordering or buying anything until Oct or Nov. Please give you input when you have time. Thanks Again, Kaya

[PoolDoc]

Ok, but you'll have to remind me when the time comes -- things are likely to remain REAL busy till August.

Ben

[CarlD]

Since you are in Louisiana, consider the salt-proof heating system: Solar!
Most, if not all the fittings are plastic and no more sensitive to salt than other plastic components.

Vinyl gets a bad rap but as Ben says, it's actually much lower maintenance than hard-sided pools. I know that sounds counter-intuitive, because concrete seems so permanent.
But concrete reacts with the water. When new and curing, it is very alkaline (after all, lime is a key ingredient in mortar, concrete and plaster). You have to maintain calcium levels in the water to prevent calcium carbonate from leaching out of the walls. Plus, about every 5 years you may well need to have the pool re-surfaced. That means draining the pool and, if you are in a wet ground area you must pump out the ground water around the pool or risk it floating, like a boat, out of the ground.

Vinyl, on the other hand can go 10 years or 20 years without replacement. I'm on Year 9 of a BAD install job and Poconos is on year 14 or 15 with his. You don't need calcium (unless the SWCG requires it) as there is little if any calcium in the vinyl, and what's there doesn't leach out to the best of our experience. Vinyl pools also tolerate a MUCH wider range of Total Alkalinity as well and are far cheaper to install.

The drawbacks to vinyl? Too high a chlorine level can fade them. Too low a pH can damage them. Pour Muriatic Acid in too fast so that it reaches the vinyl can melt the vinyl. Vinyl can be torn (Dogs are a no-no) And you can NEVER let the water level go below a foot in the shallowest area unless you are replacing the liner.

Heaters can be used with either type. SWCGs can be used with either. Waste, Waterbear and PoolSean can guide you better as to what heaters (other than solar) are compatible with SWCG systems.

As Ben pointed out, the WRONG fittings rust in salt pools. Simply make sure all metal fittings are salt-pool approved stainless steel. (Stainless steel comes in hundreds of grades depending on the application. A Buck hunting knife has very different requirements than a pool ladder. One must maintain an edge. The other must stand up to constant immersion, for example.)

Carl