OK.
First, it's usually good to test your fill water, especially for FC, CC, pH, TA and CH (no need to check CYA).
You may have very alkaline water to start with. You already know you probably have hard water based on your TA and CH reading.
Second, with your very high TA, if you are getting a lot of splashing in your pool, or have a windy location, aeration may be driving your pH up. See below.

With your high TA, which isn't usually a problem in an AG pool, you can lower it and probably solve your pH problem at the same time.
Simply add muriatic acid or dry acid to your pool to lower your pH to the 7.0-7.2 range, but NO LOWER (or risk damaging your liner). TA will come down some. Then aerate to raise pH to 7.6-7.8.
(bubbling, splashing etc causes "gassing off" of carbonic acid as CO2 and that raises pH without increasing TA. Chemical pH raisers, even Borax, will raise TA some as TA is "connected" to pH and moves with it. Aeration "cheats" that connection)
Repeat this process until TA is in the 80 to 120ppm range. You should notice that the tendency of the water to high pH level stops. If not, lower to 70-90ppm. (I keep mine at 60 because my pH has stayed locked in at 7.6 for about a month solid now).

I would consider taking out the second sock of CYA and checking again. Your CYA level isn't 0 but all we know for sure is that it's less than 30 and probably less than 15. The sample got cloudy which means you have CYA but the dot didn't disappear--so it's low. CYA can take a long time to get into your system and you shouldn't backwash for up to a week after adding it. In any case, you should check your CYA at least once a week. (I buy extra pint bottles of R-0013 and keep them in a cool dark place so I always have plenty of reagent.)

If you take out the sock and your CYA is still low and your pH is still high, for convenience you MAY consider using a floater full of Tri-chlor tablets. Tri-Chlor is HIGHLY acidic and for every 10ppm of chlorine it delivers, it adds 6ppm of CYA to your water. The 1" dissolve faster delivering a bigger "hit" of chlorine, and getting acid and CYA into the water faster. IF you go this route remember you MUST test your FC and pH daily and your CYA weekly. Also do NOT get any that says "Double Acting" "Also contains algaecide" or has copper listed as an ingredient.

However, you can do EVERYTHING with what you have and don't need to spend the money on tri-chlor.

Carl