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  1. #1
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    OK. I understand. I knew the stabilizer was needed to preserve the chlorine in the pool. But, I did not know the higher the stabilizer level, the higher the chlorine needed to be. I took your advice and increased the chlorinating % on the SWG. I have the little testing kit that came with the pool. It only goes up to 3.0 and the yellow was at least that dark. So, I know it is at least 3.0 at this time. The PhosFree worked some overnight as the phosphate level went down, but it is still between 1000 and 2000. I will probably have to do at least one more treatment. Thanks again for your help.

    Mike

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    I assume the pool store is testing your water & checking your phosphates???

    What size is your pool? From experience, I can tell you that with a larger pool, 1 treatment of the Phosfree will not lower your phosphates that much.

    I also can tell you NOT to do the Phosfloc unless it is a last resort to cure algae p[roblems.

    Keep you chlorine where it should be according to the cya chart & don't worry about the phosphates unless you absolutely have to.
    27ft. Round AG Pool

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    My pool is free form, 36ft long and 24 ft at its widest and 16 ft at its thinnest. It holds 20,000 gallons as it is 3.5ftx5ftx4ft on the depth. It has a SWG and Tahoe Blue Pebble Tec. I would really like to get the phosphates down. Will multiple treatments of PhosFree work? I know it is expensive but I do not want to floc if I do not have to.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    OK. Phosphates still high (2000-2500) . But my pressure on my filter is up only a little. I thought it would go up much higher...but it jumped from 17psi to 22psi and back down to about 19psi over a 6 hour period. I guess since I just cleaned the filter out, washed off all the DE off the grids, and replaced the DE is why my pressure is not just climbing and climbing. My new numbers are this:

    FC and TC 3.0
    pH 8.0 (a little high)
    TA 70 (a little low)
    Cal Hard 160
    CYA 40

    The guy at Leslie's told me it would take a week or two for the Phosphates to clear. He also indicated I should add Alk increaser and then acid to bring up my TA and lower my pH. Does this seem like good advice? I do use the Jack's Purple Stuff weekly to keep scale from forming. Seems to have worked so far as I have consistent high pH and I am always adding acid (SWG and Pebble Tec-1 yr old). Any thoughts??

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    I forget just how much the Phos free will drop your phosphates but it isn't much at all compared to a high 2500ppb reading. It would take MANY treatments to get it down like that.
    27ft. Round AG Pool

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    Well, finally got the phosphates down to a more acceptable level. Still a little more to go as they are in the 300-500 range. It has taken two 3 liter bottles and a 2 liter bottle of PhosFree to take care of this. So, you are talking over $100 bucks and 10-14 days of running the pump way more than usual (been averaging 12-15 hours a day). So my electric bill will spike a little as well. However, the water is clear as a bell. So, if you ever get a phosphate level of at least 2500, you will need to spend a little money and have some patience.

    Mike

  7. #7
    cwstnsko is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst cwstnsko 0
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    My experience was different. My pool is 13,500 gallon IG, and my phosphates tested at 2500+. 4 days after the 1st 2l bottle of phos-free, I was down to 300-500. I added a bottle of salt-water magic, and it's now down to 100-200. Did you leave the pho-free in the filter long enough? My bottle said not to back flush for at least 2 days. My filter ia a cartridge, so the phos free will be in there until the next time I service it, which may be a while. I did not see a pressure rise from the phos-free

    On thing worth mentioning was that I held the pH at 7.2-7.4 during the treatment and I shocked to 20 ppm Cl to kill the algae at the same time.

  8. #8
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    aylad is offline SuperMod Emeritus Burfle Ringer aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    I would use acid to lower your pH first, then add baking soda to raise your alk without raising the pH back up. If you do it the other way around, you'll raise the alk but then lower it again when you add the acid.

    And yes, it's Arm & Hammer baking soda--the exact same ingredient as alkalinity up, at 1/5 the price.

    I'd stop worrying about the phosphates--once you properly chlorinate your pool, it doesn't sound like algae is going to be a problem for you.

    Janet

  9. #9
    jenpen400 Guest

    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    Pool store said my phosphates were over 1000 last year I'm sure they are higher now just watch the clorine. I haven't had any problems everyone who sees the pool want's to know how I keep it so clear and I point my bleach bottles.

    jennifer

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Hi Phosphates

    You are right. I was lured in to buy chemicals I really do not need. I have stopped using them and just kept my chlorine level according to Ben's chart and so far my pool has not looked better. I use baking soda to raise the Alk and muratic acid to lower the pH and that is about it. I did have to raise my CYA recently right before I went on vacation for a week as I was losing my chlorine quickly (was very hot that week 105 degrees everyday). I did throw in a 1 lb bag of shock the day before I left and when I got back home the chlorine level was still between 5-10 which is in line with my CYA level (70-80).

    Thanks for the advice.

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