6ppm is not really that high a chlorine level and you don't want to "get" CC. CC is combined chlorine which is the result of the chlorine doing it's job and giving itself up to kill or oxidize a pollutant. When CC becomes .5ppm or higher you will need to shock the pool with a dose of 15ppm or so to "break" the combined chlorine. When you begin the test you are testing for TC or Total Chlorine, if you then get a CC reading (bad) then you subtract that from the TC to get your FC or Free Chlorine. It's only the FC that is available to work as a sanitiser and is what is important in keeping the water free from germs and algae. PH is important in allowing Chlorine work to it's best potential, bather comfort, and in equipment longevity, as well as preventing other elements from coming out of suspension and clouding your pool water. Total Alkalinity TA is a buffer that keeps the PH levels more stable and resistant to wild fluctuations.

The dot test is for the amount of CYA (Stabalizer), depending on where your pool is located and how much sunlight it gets will determine your target level however that said you should aim for 30 ppm to begin with. The CYA prevents the UV rays of the sun from consuming your chlorine. With no stabilizer the sun can eat all of the chlorine within minutes and leave none left to sanitize the pool. You might as well just throw your money directly in the pool and save the trip to the store Conventional wisdom is to add chlorine at dusk so all of it's energy is used in
cleaning and not in fighting the sunlight ...this is true even after you get the CYA level up. Go slow in adding stabilizer as it takes awhile to dissolve completely ..so aim first for 20-25 then redose as required.

The bubbles won't affect your PH levels when the PH is that high so don't worry about that right now.

Where did get the fill water for the pool? Can you confirm that your CA is 120 and not 1200 as first stated.

Cheers,