Going. Insane. Need help, please

[USAMariner]

OK, thank you in advance for your help.

This is for a vinyl pool.

When we initially started work on getting the pool up and going we had the water tested at the local pool store. The levels were extremely low and had to add a few different chemicals. This was about a month or so ago.

Initially we added 4 chlorine tabs to the skimmer basket. We then added 33lbs of Alkalinity Up and 27lbs of Hardness Plus spaced 24 hours apart. In between that 5lbs of shock was added.

Some more removal of leaves took place as well as some backwashing in which plenty of filthy water was pumped out. Slowly we started to see a difference and the water started to change color from a murky green, almost black to a light green.

More shock was added and more backwashing ensued. We had about a week of torrential rain which set us back and more shock and chlorine was added to fight the algae. We also added a quart of algaecide to the pool.

Eventually the water cleared and just lately when I have been vacuuming up minor debris that has blown in, that has process has been fine, although when vacuuming via waste the water has been clear and not murky like when we first started.

We last added another quart of algaecide and 2lbs of shock at the beginning of the week.

I have a drop based kit which I will use in the morning and then post the results here. I'll also attempt another round of vacuuming too.

[aylad]

Along with posting test results , please list the ingredient in the "shock" you're using-- dichlor or cal-hypo? Also, what's the ingredient in the algaecide? Polyquat or ammonia- based?

Don't add anymore of the algaecide for now-- it's mch better at preventing algae in low- chlorine situations than it is in killing a bloom. Chlorine, and lots of it, is what you need. Post up your results and we'll help you go from there.

Janet

[USAMariner]

OK, I went out this morning and tested the water and spent 45 minutes brushing and vacuuming the pool to waste. After that I added 4 chlorine tabs to the skimmer basket and that is it.

During vacuuming I did notice what appears to be yellow masses on the bottom of the pool (yellow algae?) and also around the water level there appears to be a 3 inch band of yellow discoloration.

The following are the ingredients that I have been using

"shock" = Dichlor (58.2%)
algaecide = polyquat (60%)
chlorine tablets = trichloro-s-triazinetrione (94.2%)


Test results:

Free Chlorine 3.8
pH 6.8 (big drop since the 7.6 that I had tested last Saturday)
Alkalinity 50 (it was around this mark that the test water turned from purple to clear with a green tint)
Bromine 4.4

The test kit that I use doesn't give a test for calcium hardness, unless there is a way to tell it from the other results?

Since the pH has dropped so much since Saturday I believe that may the source behind all of this, but it's just that even over the course of the weekend when the levels were perfect there didn't appear to be anything that was removing the algae.

Unfortunately I am working all day and into the night tonight so won't be able to check replies to the thread, but I do have plenty of shock, so if whoever is kind enough (Janet?) to answer this and suggests I add the shock then I can do that thi evening around 1030pm

[BigDave]

The Dichlor shock and Trichlor tabs may be contributing to your trouble fighting algae. Both these forms of chlorine contain stabillizer, too much stabilizer can prevent chlorine from working. Please get an accurate CYA (stabilizer) test, the good people here will need this test to help you. Get a decent test kit - you can test better than the pool store.

You should probably stop using the dichlor until you get CYA level. Your proper chlorine levels (normal and shock) will be dependent mostly on CYA level. See Ben's "BestGuessChart" http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/best...ine-chart.html

The procedure for algae removal is pretty simple and takes some diligence.
Bring free chlorine to shock level and keep it there until you lose less than 1ppm overnight.
keep chlorine at shock level one more day.
Run pump 24/7 and backwash filter as needed.
Clean the gunk out (as you've been doing) by brushing and vacuuming.
Stay with it you'll get there.

A couple notes:
You'll need an unstabilized chlorine source to bring your pool to shock level and keep it there. Bleach (grocery store ultra 6% Sodium Hypochlorite) and Liquid Chlorine (pool store 12% Sodium Hypochlorite) are ideal as they are readily available and don't add other stuff to your pool.
You'll need persistence and patience - test at least twice a day (more as you can) and bring chlorine back up to shock level as necessary.
Search for Pool Calculator - it is your friend.

Good Luck.

[BigDave]

One other thing: your pH is very low you should bring it up with borax before you bring the pool to shock as it is difficult to read when you have high chlorine levels.

[USAMariner]

Thanks for your help and insight.

The test kit I use also tests for acidic levels, is this the same as the CYA test? If not, I can research and pick up a new kit that covers all the neccesary tests. Any suggestions?

For now I will take your advice and stop using the Dichlor shock and just concentrate solely on using the Trichlor and some vigorous brushing/vacuuming and backwashing.

Based on my levels above, and should my test kit I currently have not be able to test CYA, is there an acceptable amount of bleach (store bought) that can be added without doing any "damage".

Also, what is borax? I've never heard of it, and is it also available at say Walmart?

Again, thanks for your help!!

[madwil]

first, don't use the triclhlor either- it adds CYA same as dichlor... and trichlor will also cause a pH drop.
Borax is found in the grocery aisle at Walmart...
As far as how much bleach, the amount depends on your CYA. 1.4 gal Walmart bleach should add around 3.8 ppm FC in your pool- that's the big jug of walmart 6% bleach.
your target FC is based on CYA- do you have a pool store in your area that can test your water and give you an initial CYA until you get your own CYA test?

[Watermom]

Until you get a CYA level, stop using dichlor AND trichlor. For now, just use bleach as your source of chlorine. If your kit doesn't test CYA, go to a reputable pool store and ask them to test it. Then post it here. But, don't buy all the stuff they are going to push at you.

In your pool, each gallon (4 quarts) of 6% bleach will add about 2.7ppm of chlorine. Test two or three (or even more if you able) times per day and each time, take the chlorine back up to about 10 for now. (When we know what your CYA reading is, we may advise a different level but go with that for now.) Continue to sustain the high cl level until you can go from sundown one day until sunup the next day without losing more than 1ppm of cl overnight.)

Your pH needs to be brought up ASAP. A reading below 7.0 is acidic and can damage your pool. Actually, a test kit cannot differentiate below 6.8 so yours may lower than 6.8. 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle at Walmart) can be used to raise pH. Start by adding a box slowly to the skimmer while the pump is running, breaking up any clumps. After 2 or 3 hours, retest pH, and add more if needed. Anywhere 7.2-7.8 is Ok, but I like 7.4-7.6.

You may want to bump your alk up a little to help control those pH swings. Add 2 lbs. at a time slowly to the skimmer. Wait a few hours, retest and redose until you get alk around 100 or so.

Do yourself a favor and get a good test kit so you won't have to rely on a pool store for readings. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 or 2006C which is the same kit with larger quantities of some of the most used reagents. If you order it through the Amazon link in my signature below, the Pool Forum makes a little money on the sale which helps keep the forum online. Only buy if the seller is Amato Industries, however. Some other sellers are substituting the K-2005 which you do NOT want.

Repost with your CYA reading.

(By the way -- ignore the bromine reading. You have a chlorine pool.)