If you are looking at a feeder for Tri-Chlor tabs I think most of us would say save your money. Using Tri-Chlor is fine when your stabilizer levels are low and your pH is relatively high, but for every 10ppm of chlorine they deliver, they add 6ppm of CYA (stabilizer, balancer, conditioner, Cyanuric Acid). While a range of 30-50ppm for CYA is good, when it goes to 80 or 100, which happens pretty fast, you start having problems. They are also EXTREMELY acidic and will drive pH down.
Besides, floaters cost around $10 and chlorinators cost a couple of hundred, plus installation. I have nothing against Tri-Chlor Tabs PROVIDED they are used appropriately. Frequently, they are not. They also aren't necessary, but are convenient.
Generally, the MOST neutral method of adding chlorine is via ordinary bleach or Liquid Chlorine (LC).
Instead, invest in a good test kit for about $50 to $70 like the Taylor K-2006, K-2006C or the Leslies Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit. Test your water's chlorine and pH level daily and weekly test your pool's total alkalinity, CYA and (if you have a hard-sided pool) Calcium Hardness.
Maintain your water correctly and you'll find you add maybe a gallon of bleach every other day, if that much.
Carl
Bookmarks