I don't understand what Test 1 .2ppm and Test 2 .5ppm means. Can you clarify? Your pH looks fine.
Your chlorine is pretty high. Are you fighting algae? What is your CYA reading and what kind of pool is this and volume?
I don't understand what Test 1 .2ppm and Test 2 .5ppm means. Can you clarify? Your pH looks fine.
Your chlorine is pretty high. Are you fighting algae? What is your CYA reading and what kind of pool is this and volume?
I think he means ".2 ppm resolution using the 25 ml sample size" vs. ".5 ppm resolution using the 10 ml sample size".
Your numbers are pretty close, not bad for a first time.
Generally, all you need is one scoop of powder, just enough to turn the water red. It's also important to try to always do it the same way. That way changes are tracked and meaningful. However, I wouldn't waste time and reagents running the 25ml test. The 10ml test is generally good enough. I've never seen a situation where I need to know if my FC was 10.4 or 10.6...10.5 is good enough. Generally the same is true of CC: If it's over .5, you need to deal with it. .5 means .5 or less. IF you have a persistent problem you MAY want to run the 25ml test just for the CC reading (If it's really.2 not .5 that's good to know) but I think I've done it maybe twice in nearly 10 years.
For now, (in fact, forever) ignore the "acid demand" and "base demand" tests if they are included. For lots of technical, and non-technical reasons, they are a waste of time. Two less things to worry about!
by far the toughest test to learn to run is the CYA test. It's important to hold the vial with the black dot at your waist facing the sun. You CAN dump the fluid back into the squeeze bottle and try again to read it. In fact, you can do it several times without having to prepare a fresh sample. I ALWAYS do it twice, just that way, to confirm my first reading.
Carl
Carl
The kit mentions you can take a test with either 10ml or 25ml of sample water which you then use in cAlculations as .2 or .5.
The pool was swampy but very clear now. 20k vinyl inground.
Cya was 50 which I am surprised about because the pool store test I had done on last Tuesday was 19. I found this test a bit arbitrary. I am not sure if I did it correctly. Do you stop when the dot is completely hidden or when it's fuzzy? Also how long should i wait when doing the ph test to take a reading?
Thanks
When it's hidden.
1) shake the mix of pool water and reagent for at least 30 seconds.
2) Stand facing the sun.
3) Hold the measuring tube at waste level and SLOWLY add the mix till the dot
disappears.
4) Dump the mix back into the vial and run the test a second time with the same
mix.
5) Perform the test the same way every time.
14'x31' kidney 21K gal IG plaster pool; SWCG (Saline Generating System's SGS Breeze); Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE DE filter; Whisperflow 1 HP pump; 8 hours hrs; kit purchased from Ben; utility water; summer: none; winter: none; PF:5.7
Actually, according to Taylor, you want your back to the sun with the tube in front of you shaded by your body and you looking straight down into the tube. That is strong indirect sunlight which is what they use for calibrating their tubes.
you shouldn't wait to do the pH test- get your sample (44ml, I think), add drops, read color
not sure why it changes with time; how long did it take to change? 1-2 minutes, or 10 minutes?
Hey JW –a shout out from another K-2006 newbie. I did my first tests yesterday too.
Yes that thing is intimidating but the folks here assure me it gets easier.
If you haven’t read the guide, do so. But read it in a quiet place in a calm state of mind. It is pretty easy to read but it had a lot of details in it.
Just for fun I’m going to learn how to use the SI slide rule. Getting down with my geeky side an all.
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Circa 1980 IG, VL, 36K Gal, DE, Chlorine
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