Using the K-2006

[Manslick]

I picked up this kit today. Rushed home and took a water sample. Sat down and opened the kit.

The FC test. Stumped from the gate.

The yellow instructions confused me.
It says:
For 1 drop = 0.2 ppm, use 25mL sample.
For 1 drop = 0.5 ppm, use 10mL sample.

I used the 25mL sample but I think the 10mL would have saved me some indicator.

How do I know which sample size to use?

I only tested for FC, CC, PH and CYA because to be honest, it is way more complex than I expected.

I am reading the guide and I understand the SI should equal 0, but without the TA and CH tests I can't know that yet. Maybe tomorrow.

My numbers look good
FC=5.6
CC=0
PH=7.4
CYA=42

The CYA, good lord - I could be off 8 to 10 points with that thing.
Any tips on doing that test?

So now what. In the past I used chlorine tabs in a floater but from reading this board I am tempted to go with bleach. Fear of the unknown has me in its grip.
Bleach pros and cons?
Advice appreciated.

[Watermom]

You'll get the hang of that kit after a few days.

You are right that using a 10ml water sample will save your indicator. It will give you a reading within 0.5ppm which is plenty accurate enough.

The CYA test is the most difficult to read. Do the test in natural light. Hold the tester waist high as you pour the solution into the test vial. Slowly add it until you cannot see the black dot. Don't test CYA too often. There is only enough solution for about 4 tests I think. If you think your CYA is about 42, then you should not use the trichlor pucks in a floater. Your level is good right where it is. Stick with bleach. It is cheap, readily available everywhere, won't add any more CYA and won't cloud your water. Cons -- bleach bottles to take to the recycling center. You can't go wrong using bleach.

Don't worry about the SI.

[waste]

I don't see an alk reading, while calcium isn't important to your liner pool, you do want to test the alkalinity.

Call me cheep but, I test the cl with the 10 ml (1 drop = .5 ppm) to save my reagents - it's close enough for day to day testing (I'll only do the 25 ml test if I'm battling something and need that precision.)

For alk and hardness, I use the 25 ml test until it has 'stabilized' and then I use the 10 ml alternative test (1 drop = 25) to insure that I'm still where I was. The cya test can't be done with less reagent, so I'd only do it if you had lost a lot of water or had added more the week before. (BTW - Mom, I get ~6 3/4 tests out of 2 .75 oz bottles in the K2005/6 kit )

[AnnaK]

Don't worry too much about being off on the CYA test. The whole thing is a range, anyway. You're good between 30 and 50 ppm. You're marginally okay even at 70 ppm but you would be using more bleach. Sounds like your water tested right in the middle of the range so you can switch to straight bleach now and not use the pucks anymore.

Those tests will become second nature in a few days. Do the pH and the 10 ml FC/CC test daily and check your alkalinity once a week. If your pH stays steady your TA (alk) is probably okay as well.

[Manslick]

Thanks all.

On the way to work this morning it hit me that the distance from my eye to the CYA tube would be a variable in the black dot visibility.

I was sitting down outside at 5PM in the afternoon sunlight and right on top of the tube, so at waist level the tube will be 24” from my eye. I think that would tend to make the dot disappear sooner assuming my eyesight is as good from 2 feet. If true that would lower the CYA level.

I had this water tested at Leslie’s on Saturday and was told the level was 30 so I added some stabilizer since 30 being the low end got me worried.

So okay, I’m going with bleach. With a 36K gal pool, what’s the dosage? Were do you guys get yours?


Hey waste; no I did not do an alk test yesterday but I plan on it tonight.

My first test showed it to be low, so I added 5 lbs of alk up.

Hey AnnaK – nice to see some reassuring words concerning the CYA test.

[waterbear]

The Taylor website has some excellent videos on how to properly use your test kit.

[Manslick]

The Taylor website has some excellent videos on how to properly use your test kit.

Many thanks waterbear.

[wsommariva]

May want to use baking soda instead of alk up. Should be cheaper. And I personally stay away from pool store tests. I rely on my test kits. Also check the expiration dates on the reagents. I just buy new ones each spring.

[CarlD]

Where I live, Baking Soda is about $.80/lb, but Alk Up and similar products run up to $3/lb. What's the difference? The package and the price! Both are Sodium Bicarbonate (but the pool store version calls itself Sodium Hydrogen Carbonate--to fool you into thinking it's not the same as Bicarb...it is).

pH Up! Balance Pak 200(or is it 300?) runs at least $3/lb. It is Sodium Carbonate. Sodium Carbonate is sold as Arm&Hammer Washing Soda (in the yellow, not orange box) and costs again, about $.80/lb.

"Liquid Chlorine" is frequently sold in 6% concentrations at pool stores. It is identical to Ultra Bleach (6%). If the pool store's is cheaper per gallon, buy it. If not, don't. They also sell "Liquid Shock" which is between 10% and 12.5% concentration. Basically double the price of bleach. If it costs less than half as much per gallon, buy it. If more, then go with bleach.

It's all about labeling and pricing and trying to confuse you into paying more.

Carl

[Manslick]

May want to use baking soda instead of alk up. Should be cheaper. And I personally stay away from pool store tests. I rely on my test kits. Also check the expiration dates on the reagents. I just buy new ones each spring.

Thanks wsommariva. Where do you get your reagents?