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Thread: aciam - Nightmare conversion from baquacil to chlorine

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    You need to be a little more aggressive with the chlorine--looks like you're adding enough to start killing the old Baq off, but not enough to get ahead of it. With zero stabilizer in the water, you need to add enough chlorine to get to 12-15 ppm and do your best to hold it there as consistently as possible. If you can test/add additional chlorine 2-3 or more times daily, that's even better. If you can hold it at that "shock" level, you will win the battle--you just need to bump it up a little. Also, no more clarifiers or anything else except chlorine. Everything extra that you add is adding to your chlorine demand, and you already are barely keeping enough in the pool for the Baq. So..nothing else extra.

    In a 10K gallon pool, one gallon of 12.5% chlorine raises your chlorine to 12.5 ppm--IF your chlorine is still full strength, which it may or may not be. Add your chlorine, give it 30-40 minutes to circulate, and retest--and bump it up if you need to til you're between the 12-15 ppm mark--then test and re-add as often as you can. It'll work!!

    Janet
    Janet

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    Thanks Janet - do you mean keep FC 12-15ppm and not worry so much about the total chlorine level ( the FC added to my CC level)? because those seem kind of high lately. will i bleach out my liner or is that not true? I am surprised by how high my cc levels were getting - and it is now day 10 of the conversion. What does that mean? I remember reading somewhere on the forum that you can raise cc levels by inadequate shocking. Am i making it all worse by adding too little? Thanks. aciam

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    Janet has given you good advice. While you are converting, your high chlorine levels won't last for long. They will quickly drop as part of the conversion process. The more consistently you maintain the chlorine levels between 12-15, the faster your conversion will go. As many times a day as you can test and add enough bleach to get back to 12-15, do it. No such thing as doing it too often. Keep us posted how things are going!

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    I was hoping to get some more advice about how to proceed at this point. so, I added no bleach all day yesterday - the morning readings were 11.5 FC and 12 for CC ( yikes) - after reading your advice I retested at 7pm and the FC was 9 and the CC 4.5. I then added 1/2 gallong bleach (12.5%) and retested at 830pm - the FC was only up to 10 and the CC was approximately 9!!! I ran out of the titrating reagent for my kit at this point.

    I figured all the bleach I added pretty much got combined with that high of a reading. So, I decided to add 1 more gallon of bleach for overnight work in a desperate attempt to kill off the combined chlorine. Not sure if that was correct.

    I decided to head to the pool store this am to get the water tested since I couldnt do it here and realized that they cant test above 5ppm with their in store test! The guy made me feel really badly about having so much chlorine in the pool - he said he had never seen the color turn so deep pink/red and guesstimated a free chlorine of 7 and total chlorine of 9. I bought some test strips that check total and free chlorine myself just as a way to get through today without my testing kit up and running - they test up to 10ppm - and both pads hit that mark ( for FC and TC). Problem is I don't know where I am in terms of my CC and what to do today in terms of adding bleach now.

    The pool store guy made me feel so badly I practically ran out of the store. He suggested non chlorine oxidizer - and told me that if I put clothes in the pool right now they would bleach out immediately. I'm hoping you guys can make me feel better about what I am doing because I feel like things are getting worse in terms of my CC instead of better. I am now on day 11 of this process. The pool looks really great today - clear and blue and of course the weather is supposed to be in the high 90's the next several days - and my kids are dying to swim.

    so, here are my questions. Why does the CC keep climbing so incredibly high? the sand is changed and clean and has no residual baquacil in it and my baquacil readings on day 6 were 0.

    Is it the free chlorine I am supposed to keep at 12-15? what about the total being so high?

    I noticed my chlorine is maintaining itself throughout the day despite sun ( yesterdays readings of 11.5 in the am to 9 in pm with no added bleach) doesn't that seem like a good thing? like I am ready to let it drop to levels we can swim in? ( my kids so want to swim)

    what do I do today since I have no good way to test for CC?


    Thanks so much. aciam

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    Either of 2 things is going on: You still have a lot of conversion yet to do, or you are running the test incorrectly.

    Meantime, order more of the reagents on-line. If somehow, by a miracle the pool store guy is right and your FC was 7 and TC was 9, that means your CC was 2. Remember TC = FC + CC. Always.

    Plus the test strips' TC block is never very accurate. the FC block is better. You can dilute a sample of pool water with steam distilled water 1:1 and then use the strip. If it reads "10" your FC is 20, or double. Again your TC is probably not going to make sense. But if you remember that TC MUST be greater than or equal to FC, you'll realize the TC test on the strips isn't very good.

    I "cheat" and use strips to get a quick idea of my water, but I've been using the FAS-DPD tests for SO many years, as well as the OTO tests, that I can easily verify with the FAS-DPD test that the FC pad on the strip is reasonably accurate, but the TC pad is garbage.

    Now remember that you must keep your FC level at the recommended shocking level (based on your stabilizer level) until your pool is COMPLETELY clear and you get no CC reading (at least not higher than 0.5ppm). Then you can back off your chlorine levels, adjust your other readings, and replace the now-gooped-up sand in your filter.

    All the best,

    Carl
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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    I know the pool guy was just guessing because his test didn't go higher than 5ppm. I think my test strip pad is more accurate and that the FC is probably 10 or a bit higher. But I have no idea what my CC is. Oh and the sand was changed 2 days ago which is why I am so confused as to why the CC is still so high - there is no residual baquacil to react with. I also have no stabilizer in yet as per the conversion instructions - waiting to get things set straight before I do that. I'm pretty sure I am doing the test correctly. But in all my reading I have never seen CC levels as high as mine which is worrisome to me. would love some reassurance.

    so I guess today I will just try to keep the FC up at 12-15 by my pad tests - the new reagents were already ordered and should be here tomorrow and then I can regroup.

    Any answers to my other questions from the previous post? Thanks! aciam

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    Quote Originally Posted by aciam View Post

    so, here are my questions. Why does the CC keep climbing so incredibly high? the sand is changed and clean and has no residual baquacil in it and my baquacil readings on day 6 were 0.

    Is it the free chlorine I am supposed to keep at 12-15? what about the total being so high?
    The CC is climbing high because the chlorine is still trying to kill off something in the water, probably leftover residual from the Baq and other Baq products. If you changed the sand before all the Baq goo was gone, then you probably do still have some in the filter and will need to change the sand again, once it's all gone. We normally recommend that you get to the point of no CC and holding chlorine overnight before sand changes, and that is why.

    Yes, the FC needs to be 12-15 ppm in order to kill off whatever is causing your CC. If you keep the chlorine up, the CC will eventually come down and the gunk is removed from your pool. Sometimes it just takes a lot of patience, persistence, and being very diligent about keeping the chlorine high.

    Janet

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    OK guys - I just got my new titrating reagent today and I am getting some scary numbers on the test. After adding bleach, my CC has climbed to 25 with a FC of 15. It has been 2 weeks since I started the conversion - I had much lower levels of CC the first week. the pool is crystal clear but my hands hurt after getting a water sample! What am I doing wrong?

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    Default Re: first post - aciam - converting pool from baquacil to chlorine

    Try that test again. I'm pretty sure those numbers can't be right.

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