You can use Cal-Hypo but be sure to give it time to disolve as it can make your pool cloudy. Also you'll need to test for CH and when it hits 400ppm, you are done with Cal-hypo.

But you have a number of options, given that the bulk and weight of LC is a problem (some stores sell 2.5 gal carboys--half the weight of 5 gal).

Here's what I see: T/A:110 and pH of 8. Just bring pH down to 7.6 will lower T/A, but should still keep it in the recommended range. However, if pH keeps going up, you may want T/A lower, like in the 60-80ppm range.

Here's another idea: Normally, with a CYA of 35-40 (37 is a guess), I'd say you were done with CYA. But, if like aylad, you want to run a higher pool to reduce chlorine additions, aiming for CYA=80ppm and keeping FC in the 5-10ppm range is reasonable.
So...Tri-Chlor tabs are, given your conditions and desire, actually the ideal solution. They will

a) Release chlorine slowly and regularly, meaning you don't have to add chlorine.
b) Are very acid, so if you have a rising pH problem they can control it.
c) dump stabilizer into your water.

BUT, you STILL have to watch your chems...but you know that. When CYA hits 80ppm, you are done with Tri-chlor tabs.
Plus you should check your FC and pH daily. If you can't do it daily, then do it every other day. You are watching for (obviously) too low FC and for changing pH--trending too high (now) or too low(possible with Tri-Chlor).

If the tabs take pH too low, well Borax will fix that and it's not that heavy, only 4lb/box.

So, just a thought:
1) Use Tri-Chlor tabs until CYA=80ppm
2) Then switch to Cal-Hypo until CH=400ppm
3) Then use bleach, or one-gallon containers of LC (more expensive than carboys, but easier to carry).

With a balanced pool at CYA=80ppm you shouldn't need to be adding more than 1/2 gallon of LC every 2-4 days.

Your situation is a little unusual as your limiting factors are time and being disabled, rather than cost of the items. Try to buy the chems at a discount like K-Mart or WalMart or box stores. Be sure tri-chlor tabs are NOT "double acting" and do NOT contain copper.

Ultimately, though, the rules of pool maintenance don't change. We recommend the B-B-B method of Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda to get people to understand that they are fed nonsense by pool stores and pool services, and that you do NOT have to spend a fortune or hours and hours maintaining your pool. You can maintain your pool perfectly well, using B-B-B, plus MA and ONLY go to the pool store to buy CYA.
When one comprehends all that, one can, given certain very specific conditions, use some of the pool store stuff effectively to make their life easier. That's all I'm suggesting, now that you understand the importance of measures of CYA vs FC, and of CH.

I'm currently using up Tri-Chlor tabs as I had 0 CYA when I opened and a floater under the solar blanket is keeping a constant FC for me.....And Borax is cheap (I've had to add it). When the tabs are gone, if CYA is over 30, I'll go back to LC. If CYA hits 50, I'll take them out and use LC as well. Meanwhile, I just test every day (except for the weeks of "monsoon". Then I tested when it stopped raining! )

Carl